■■--< — rr — *
The Universal Car
FORD MANUAL
For Owners and Operators
of Ford Cars and Trucks
Copyrighted 1019
h
Ford Motor Company
All right* reserved
Published by
FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Detroit, Michigan, U. S. A,
Foreword
IT i. a significant fact that nearly all Ford cars are driven by
little or bo practical experience with things mechanical
The simplicity of the Ford car and the ease with which it
mcalities unnecessary for its operation
Fo ^l the tw *? fa « that there are more than twenty thousand
Ford serv.ee stations distributed throughout the civilized worid-
dda?-!,1 J r^ S r d reP8ire may "* h8d Wi,h n ° annoying
dday-g 1V es to Ford owners a singular freedom from mechanical
annoyances which beset owners of cars having limited servke
faciltties and distribution. service
abfe U 2T e ^ iS " ' bperative ' * h - howcver < altogether desir-
ed WhhTT L ,T Cr Sh ° Uld th °™g»<y understand his
ofrt,,^ r k T° wle , d£e at his ^mmand he is always master
of the s.tuat.on-he will maintain his car more economically-
Cfc £' r fUln r^ and hC Wi " 8la ° dcrivc more pfeasurc
from ,t, for it is a truism that the more one knows about a thing
the more one enjoys it.
The mastery of a thorough knowledge of Ford construction is
by no means a difficult or time-consuming task. The Ford is the
simplest car made. It is easy to understand, and is not difficult
to keep in proper adjustment and repair.
J*uV h u F ° rd constmction may be thoroughly understood-
and that there may be an authoritative guide for the making of
Ford adjustments— this book is published.
Important
It is most import,,, that <mners <,f Furd cars shall insist
«./*>» getthig the genuine F t , r d- m „de materials, or '/Cl, "
uhen hav.ng repairs or replacements made. This uiUbe
assured when the ear is taken ,„ the authorized Ford
agent. Imitation, or "bogus" or counterfeit parts of
■T 1 " l'". al "y art! *""'"# >»«de and sold as "Ford Part, »
agent *~ ^ **"""* WUH "" ««"•«*»«* F°rd
The Car and Its Operation
it/..,, must fe* <w »m-/„~ Answer No. 1
x tar ting the t.ar? .■»»»»»
Before trying to start the car, fill the radiator (by removing cap at top) with clean
fresh water. If perfectly dean water cannot be obtained it is advisable to strain
it through muslin or other similar material to prevent foreign matter from getting
in and obstructing the small tubes of the radiator. The system will hold approxi-
mately three gallons. It is important that the car should not be run under its
own power unless the water circulating system has been filled. Pour in the water
until you are sure that both radiator and cylinder water jackets are full. I he
water will run out of the overflow pipe onto the ground when the entire water
system has been properly filled. During the first few days that a new car is
being driven it is a good plan to examine the radiator frequently and see that it
is kept properly filled. The water supply should be replenished as often as may
be found necessary. Soft rain water, when it is to be had ma clean state, is
superior to hard water, which may contain alkalies and other salts which tend to
deposit sediment and clog the radiator. (See chapter on Cooling System.
»*-*«*«« Answer No. 2
Gtuouner
The ten-gallon gasoline tank should be filled— nearly full— and the supply should
never be allowed to get low. When filling the tank be sure that there are no
naked flames within several feet, as the vapor is extremely volatile and travels
rapidly Always be careful about lighting matches near where gasoline has been
•milled, as the air within a radius of several feet is permeated with the highly
explosive vapor. The small vent hole in the gasoline tank cap should not be
allowed to get plugged up, as this would prevent proper flow of the gasoline to
the carburetor. The gasoline tank may be drained by opening the pet cock in
the sediment bulb at the bottom.
STo*?*. * A"*™ N °- 3
Upon recdnt of the car see that a supply of medium light, high-grade gas engine
oil is poured into the crank case through the breather pipe at the front of the
tmgine (a metal cap covers it). Down under the car in the flywheel casing (the
reservoir which holds this oil) you will find two pet cocks. Pour oil in slowly
until it runs out of the upper cock. Leave the cock open until It stops running-
then close it. After the engine has become thoroughly limbered up. the best
results will be obtained by carrying the oil at a level midway between the two
cocks— but under no circumstances should it be allowed to get below the lower
cock. All other parts of the car are properly oiled when it leaves the factory
However, it will be well to see that all grease cups are filled and that oil is supplied
to necessary parts. (See Cut No. 18, also chapter on Lubrication.)
time are Svnrk and Throttle Answer No. 4
I > vers uxetif
Under the steering wheel are two small levers. The right-hand (throttle) lever
controls the amount of mixture (gasoline and air) which goes into the engine.
When the engine is in operation, the farther this lever is moved downward toward
the driver (referred to as "opening the throttle") the faster the engine runs and
the greater the power furnished. The left-hand lever controls the spark, which
explodes the gas in the cylinders of the engine. The advancing of this lever
[31
Steering Wheel, showing reduction gears meshing with the teeth of the gear case and center pinion. (Cut No. 1/
THE CAR AND ITS OPERATION
■'advances the spark," and it should be moved down notch by notch until the
'motor seems to reach its maximum speed. If the lever is advanced beyond this
point a dull knock will be noticed in the engine. (See chapter on Ignition.)
Where should these lerem he when . _- ,
,r«n.-»# the Engine? Answer No. 5
The spark lever should usually be put in about the third or fourth notch of the
quadrant (the notched half-circle on which the levers operate). The throttle
should usually be opened about five or six notches. A little experience will soon
teach you where these levers should be placed for proper starting. Care should be
taken not to advance the spark lever too far, as the engine may "back kick."
What else is necessary before . - T _
Mating the Engine? Answer No. 6
First, see that the hand lever, which comes up through the floor of the car at the
left of the driver, is pulled back as far as it will go. The lever in this position
holds the dutch in neutral and engages the hub brake, thus preventing the car
moving forward when the engine is started. Second, after inserting the switch
key in the switch on the coil box, throw the switch lever as far to the left as it will
go — -to the point marked "magneto." This switch connects the magneto with
I he engine. The engine can't be started until it is on — and the throwing off of this
switch stops the engine.
Iloir Ut the Engine m _ n
started? Answer No. 7
If the car is not equipped with a starter the engine is started by the lifting of the
starting crank at the front of the car. Take hold of the handle and push firmly
toward the car till you feel the crank ratchet engage, then lift upward with a
quick swing. With a little experience this operation will become an easy matter.
Don't, as a usual thing, crank downward against the compression — for then an
early explosion may drive the handle vigorously backward. This does not mean
however, that it is not advisable, when the car is hard to start, to occasionally
"spin" the engine by the use of the starting handle — but be sure the spark lever
is retarded when spinning or cranking the engine against compression, otherwise
a sudden backfire may injure the arm of the operator. When the engine is cool
it is advisable to prime the carburetor by pulling on the small wire at the lower
left corner of the radiator while giving the engine two or three quarter turns with
the starting handle.
If the car is equipped with a starter the spark and throttle levers should be placed
in the same position on the quadrant as when cranking by hand, and the ignition
switch turned on. Current from either battery or magneto may be used for
igmtion. However, we recommend that the magneto be used at alt times.
The magneto was designed to furnish ignition for the Model T engine and better
results will be obtained by operating in this way. Special attention must be
paid to the position of the spark lever as a too advanced spark will cause serious
hackfiring which in turn will bend or break the shaft in the starter. The starting
motor ts operated by a push button, conveniently located in the floor of the car
at the driver's feet. With the spark and throttle levers in the proper position,
and the ignition switch turned on, press on the push button with the foot. This
closes the circuit between the battery and starting motor, causing the pinion
of the Bendix drive shaft to engage with the teeth on the flywheel, thus turning
over the crankshaft. When the engine is cold it may be necessary to prime it
by pulling out the carburetor priming rod, which is located on the instrument
hoard. In order to avoid flooding the engine with an over rich mixture of gas, the
priming rod should only be held out for a few seconds at a time.
THI FORD MANUAL
n»„ M the Engi,,» best Answer No. 8
started in eold weather.'
A, easoline does not vaporize readily in cold weather it is naturally more difficult
fo start the motor undersuch conditions. The usnal method of starting the ■engine
when cold is to turn SL carburetor dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the left
Jn order to allow a richer mixture of gasoline to be drawn into the cylinders; then
h„lJ n,,t the orimina rod while you turn crank from six to eight one-quarter
InqEcScrtJth^otorov^^ times with the starter.
Another method of starting a troublesome cold engine is as follows: Before
^u throw on«^e magneto twitch. (1) close throttle lever; (2) hold out pnm.ng
rod wh^you give crank several quick turns, or turn the m «°'°f f *J™ " m <?
with the starter, then let go of priming rod (being careful that it goes back
al the way 1- (3) place spark lever in about third notch and advance throttle
fever scleral notches; (4) throw on switch (being sure to get it on side marked
••M a gn\to^;"s) give crank one or two turns, or close the startmg switch and the
motTsl ould stir? After starting the motor it is advisable to advance : the spark
eiaht or ten notches on the quadrant and let the motor run until thoroughly
hMted ud If von start out with a cold motor you will not have much power
a^ a^e Zble to "stall^ The advantage of turning on the switch last, or after
^rimtnt ifthat when you throw on the switch and start the motor, you have
KrnVv o> !a« in the Cylmders, to keep the motor running, thereby eliminating the .
double of the motof starting andVpping. After motor is warmed up turn
carburetor adjustment back one-quarter turn.
To facilitate starting many drivers make a practice of stopping their engine by I
SlSgou" on ieprimingrod, which has the effect oF shutting off the ™™£™ 1
and I fitling the cylinders full of a very rich gasoline vapor. This should not be 1
done un^s the car is going to stand over night or long enough to cool off. If the i
motorTs I topped in this way and then started when hot, starting is apt to be dif- I
ficult on account of the surplus gasoline in the carburetor.
If ha, function doe* the Answer No. 9\
Hand Leier perform?
Its chief purpose is to hold the clutch in neutral position. If it were not for this [
lever the dri^r would have to stop the engine whenever he left the driver b seat
He would also be unable to crank the engine without the car starting forward |
with the first explosion. When pulled back as far aslt will S o ^*™*£to
acts as an emergency brake on the rear wheels, by expanding the brake shoes in
Sc rc^hcTdmml Therefore the hand lever should be back as far as it wiU
<™ when cranking the engine or when the car is at rest. It should be only in a
verttal pcTion" and not far enough backward to act as a 1 brak< : on 1 *eȣ*^
when thecar is to be reversed. When the car is operating in high or low speed |
the hand lever should be all the way forward.
th,u- d,. the Foot Answer No. 10
Pedals opera tat
The first one toward the left operates the clutch. When pressed *°™ard the ,
dutch Idal engages the low speed. When half-way forward the dutch is m
neutral^ e , disconnected from the driving mechanism of the rear wheeled
the releasing of this pedal engages the high-speed clutch. The center pedal
operated ^ Averse. V righSiand pedal operates the transmission brake.
itovcu the Car Answer No. 21
started/
Slightly accelerate the engine by opening the throttle, press the clutch pedal
half way forward, thereby holding the clutch in a neutral position while
THI CAR AND ITS OPERATION
throwing the hand lever forward; then press the pedal forward into slow speed
and when under sufficient headway (20 to 30 feet), allow the pedal to drop
back slowly into high speed, at the same time partially closing the throttle, which
will allow the engine to pick up its load easily. With a little practice, the
change of speeds will be easily accomplished , and without any appreciable
effect on the smooth running of the machine.
How is the Car _- , „
stopped? Answer No. 12
Partially close the throttle; release the high speed by pressing the clutch pedal
forward into neutral ; apply the foot brake slowly but firmly until the car comes
to a dead stop. Do not remove foot from the clutch pedal without first pulling
the hand lever back to neutral position, or the engine will stall. To stop the
motor, open the throttle a trifle to accelerate the motor and then throw off the
switch. The engine will then stop with the cylinders full of explosive gas, which
will naturally facilitate starting.
Endeavor to so familiarize yourself with the operation of the car that to disengage
the clutch and apply the brake becomes practically automatic — the natural thing
to do in case of emergency
Hitu in the Car ,. , _,
reversed? Answer No. 13
It must be brought to a dead stop. With the engine running, disengage the clutch
wit h the hand lever and press the reverse pedal forward with the left foot; the
right foot being free to use on the brake pedal if needed. Do not bring the hand
lever back too for or you will set the brakes on rear wheels. Experienced drivers
ordinarily reverse the car by simply holding the clutch pedal in neutral with the
left foot, and operating the reverse pedal with the right.
Ilmr in the Spark . __ . .
pontrotUdT Answer No. 14
By the left-hand lever under the steering wheel. Good operators drive with
the spark lever advanced just as far as the engine will permit. However, ad-
vancing the spark too far will ca-.se a dull knock in the motor, due to the fact that
the explosion occurs too early. The spark should only be retarded when the
engine slows down on a hravy road or steep grade, but caie should be exercised
not to retard the spark too far as th!s will result in late ignition, which causes
loss of power and overheating of the motor and may also result in warped,
burned or cracked valves. Learn to operate the spark as the occasion demands.
The greatest economy in gasoline consumption is obtained by driving with the
•park advanced sufficiently to obtain the maximum speed.
How is spited of , _
Car cotttrvUed? Answer No. 15
The different speeds required to meet road conditions are obtained by opening
or closing the throttle. Practically all the running speeds needed for ordinary
t rnvel arc obtained on high gear, and it is seldom necessary to use the low gear
except to give the car momentum in starting. The speed of the car may be tem-
porarily slackened in driving through crowded traffic, turning comers, etc., by
"slipping the clutch," 1, e., pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral.
8 THB FORD MANUAL
Is it adrisable fur otrnem to
make their own Adjustments? Answer No. 16
The Ford is the simplest of all cars. Most of the ordinary adjustments an owner
will soon learn to make for himself. But we must strongly recommend that when
it becomes necessary to employ the services of a mechanic, the car be taken to a
Ford mechanic— One of Our Own representatives who thoroughly understands
the car — and who will have no motive for running up useless repair bills. The
entire Ford organization is interested in keeping every individual Ford car in
constant operation, at the lowest possible cost. We have known of much damage
done to many Cars by unskilled repair men.
What attention
dees the Car not.' Answer No. 17
Remember that a new machine requires more careful attention during the first
few days it is being driven than after the parts have become thoroughly "worked
in." The car which is driven slowly and carefully when new usually gives the
most satisfactory service in the end. Never start out with your car until you are
sure that is has plenty of oil and water. Frequently inspect the running gear.
See that no unnecessary play exists in either front or" rear wheels, and that all
bolts and nuts are tight. Make a practice of taking care of every repair or
adjustment as soon as its necessity is discovered. This attention requires but
little time and may avoid delay or possible accident on the road. We aim to
deliver the car in proper mechanical adjustment. Afterwards it is plainly the
duty of the driver to keep it in that condition.
The Ford Engine
What is tin- principle •>/ the , ,, .„
gaaoUtw-drtven Bngtort Answer No. IS
Gasoline when mixed with air and compressed is highly explosive. An explosion
is a violent expansion caused by instantaneous combustion of confined gases.
In the gasoline engine the mixture is drawn into a cylinder, where it is compressed
by an advancing piston and then exploded by an electric spark, which sends the
piston downward, and through the connecting rod imparts a rotary motion to the
crankshaft. (See Cut No. 2. )
of th.- Piston*? Answer No. 19
On the downward stroke the suction of the piston draws the fresh gas from the
carburetor, through the inlet pipe and valve, into the cylinder. The upward
movement of the piston compresses the gas into a very smalt space, between the
top of the piston and the depression in the cylinder head, known as the "combus-
tion chamber." (The compressed gases exert a pressure of approximately 60
pounds per square inch.) At this point the electric spark, generated by the
magneto, explodes the gases — driving the piston downward — thus producing
the power which turns the crank shaft. On the next stroke upward the piston
drives the exploded gas out through the exhaust valve and pipe to the muffler.
(See Cut No. 3.)
Connecting Rml - . ., r,r\
haurmwMdi Answer No. 20
■ steel rod, connecting piston and crank shaft. Should the babbitt bearing
become worn, or burned out through lack of oil, a knocking in the engine will
11 in which case the entire connecting rod should be replaced. To make this
icemeot, ' 1 I drain oil from crank case; {2) take off cylinder head; (3) remove
li pi , t c on bottom of crank case ; (4) disconnect connecting rod from crank
shaft; (51 take piston and rod out through top of cylinder.
Iriwwnwnt? Answer No. 21
( >ni- intake and one exhaust valve are located in each cylinder. The former ad-
nnfi tin J Irawn from the carburetor through the inlet pipe — the latter
pern i iloded Ras to be driven out through the exhaust pipe. The valves
nre alternately opened and closed (see Cut No. 3) by the cams on the cam shaft
1 rising against push rods which in turn lift the valves from their seats.
What alitwt . itT nn
i„i,,- titrate*? Answer No. 22
In timing the engine the points of opening and closing of the valves arc, of course ,
what should be considered. As the valves are properly timed at the factory
when the engine is built the necessity for retiming would occur only when such
parts as the cam shaft, time gears or valves were removed in overhauling the
(iigine,
tn fitting the large time gear to the cam shaft it is important to see that the first
points in a direction opposite to the zerb mark (see Cut No. 3). The time
gears must also mesh so that the tooth marked zero (0) on the small time gear will
the two teeth on the large gear at the zero point. The time gears
(91
WtM :
Prttwn Kjnj - — i
PnWt
Clutch V""W-
Otfth Hd«ifi f M J
OuKh swj-
Cun £lwfi Franc Bfunng
Snwll T«w Gm
OmSHrfr
CrjiiLCntCMTi^
OlDi^.n rii..;
■
Sectional View of the Model T Motor, (Cut No, 2)
IiiliIb SniAe -t
tattle Vilve Clncd
Smft*
tr>r*te V*lv, Cb«d
Ekfautr Vjfve Open
-Eahiint Slfoke
EahiuK Valve Closed
Intake V*lve Oreti
C-Qtnprciikm Sfffl&e fc
a Vtfoc Ctovret
Exhtutt Valve Ckned
Puifi Rod
Large Time Gear
Conro Bryih Asib
Zero Marfcs on Time Gear
Cylinder Assembly, showing the correct position of the valves with time gears properly set according to punch marks on the
eears also the relative position of the pistons in their strokes as indicated above. The firing order of the cylinders is 1, 2 t 4, 3.
(Cut No. 3)
THE FORD MANUAL
now being properly set, the exhaust valve on No. 1 cylinder is open and the in-
take valve closed, the other valves being in the position indicated in Cut No. 3.
The opening and closing of the valves being as follows: The exhaust valve opens
when the piston reaches 5-16° of bottom center, the distance from the top of the
piston head to the top of cylinder casting measuring 3 3-6'. The exhaust valve
will close on top centre, the piston being 5-16* above the cylinder casting. The
intake valve opens 1-16* after top center, and closes 9-16" after bottom center,
the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder casting measur-
ing 3 1-8'.
Valve Lifii^gTool
How the valve lifting tool should be used. (Cut No. 4.)
The clearance between the push rod and valve stem should never be greater than
1-32" nor less than 1-64". The correct clearance is naturally half way between
these two measurements. The gap should be measured when the push rod is on
the heel of the cam.
II hat cifxHif r/ie
riirc of tln< I dices?
Answer No. 23
They seldom get out of order — but they do get dirty, as a result of carbon collect-
ing on the valve seats. These carbon deposits by preventing proper closing of the
valves, permit the gases under compression to escape, resulting in loss of power
and uneven running of the motor. If, when turning the engine over slowly, there is
a lack of resistance in one or more cylinders, it is probable that the valves need
re-grinding. As the "life" of the engine depends largely upon the proper seating
of the valves, it is necessary that they be ground occasionally.
Ilinc ni-f I ii/ic- remnrvd
for grin fling?
.Answer No. 24
(1) Drain radiator; (2) remove cylinder head; (3) remove the two valve covers on
the right side of engine; (4) raise the valve spring with lifting tool (see Cut No. 4)
and pull out the little pin under the valve seat. The valve may then be lifted
out by the head.
THE FORD ENGINE
13
Answer No. 25
How are Valve*
grmi n tl?
For this work use e good grinding paste of ground glass and oil— procurable from
auto supply houses. A convenient way is to put a small amount in a suitable
dish, adding a spoonful or two of Icerosense and a few drops of lubricating oil to
make a thin paste.
Place the mixture sparingly on the
bevel face of the valve. Put the
valve in position on the valve seat,
and rotate it back and forth (about
a quarter turn) a few times, with a
Ford grinding tool. Then lift slight-
ly from the seat, change the position
and continue the rotation, and keep
on repeating this operation until the
bearing surface is smooth and bright.
The valve should not be turned
through a complete revolution, as this
is apt to cause scratches running
around the entire circumference of the
valve and seat. When the grinding
is completed the valve should be re-
moved from the cylinder, thoroughly
washed with kerosene, and the valve
seat wiped out thoroughly. Extreme
care should be taken that no abrasive
substance gets into the cylinders or
valve guides. This can be avoided
if the grinding paste is applied sparingly to the bevel face of the valve.
If the valve seat is worn badly or seamed, it is best to have it reseated with a valve
seating tool. This operation requires considerable skill, and perhaps had better be
done by an expert mechanic. Care should be exercised against making too deep a
cut, necessitating the retiming of the valve.
,,'J„ Hot
l^l^^Clinfa Curt
1 -.ja 1
V#ta3«l~^
HHp ^va,"iwi
Method of grinding valve. (Cut No. S)
Answer No. 26
When lhe Valves am] Push
Itodiiare tvarn — what?
When the valves or push rods become worn, so as to leave too much play between
them, thus reducing the lift of the valves and diminishing the power of the motor,
it is best to replace the push rods with new ones. The clearance between the push
rods and the valve stem should never be greater than j ! j" nor less than A*. If the
clearance is greater, the valve will open late and close early, resulting in uneven
running of the motor. If the clearance is less than j',* there is danger of the valve
remaining partially open all the time. If replacing the push rod does not give the
proper clearance, the valve should also be replaced. We do not recommend draw-
ing out the valve stem, as the operation requires experience and the price of the
new part does not warrant the time and expense necessary to properly do the work.
Answer No. 27
II hat nhi'tii the
Valve Springs?
When the valves fail to seat themselves properly, there is a possibility that the
springs may be weak or broken. A weak inlet spring would probably not affect
the runnmg of the engine, but weakness in the exhaust valve spring causes a very
uneven action, which is difficult to locate. The symptoms area lag in the engine doe
to the exhaust valve not closing instantaneously, and as a result a certain percent-
age of the charge under compression escapes, greatly diminishing the force of the
THE FORD MANUAL
explosion. Weakness in a valve spring can usually be detected by the following
method: Remove the plate which encloses them at the side of the cylinder and
insert a screw-driver between the coils of the spring while the engine is running.
If the extra tension thus produced causes the engine to pick up speed, the spring is
obviously weak and should be replaced with a new one.
II Iml cause "Knocking" , ht no
i^tho Engw*? Answer No. 28
There are several causes, which may be enumerated aa follows: (1) carbon knock
— which is by far the most common — resulting from carbonizing of cylinders; (2)
knock caused by a too advanced spark; (3) connecting rod knock: (4) crank shaft
main bearing knock; (5) knock due to loose-fitting piston or broken ring; (6) knock
caused by the piston striking the cylinder head gasket. When the engine knocks
from any cause whatsoever, the matter should be promptly investigated by an
experienced mechanic and the difficulty corrected.
How iiuiy the different , -. __
Knocks be distinguished? Answer I\0. JV
] I The carbon knock is a clear, hollow sound, most noticeable in climbing sharp
grades, particularly when the engine is heated. It is also indicated by a sharp
rap immediately on advancing the throttle. (2) Too advanced spark will be
indicated by a dull knock in the motor. (3) The connecting rod knock sounds like
the distant tapping of steel with a smalt hammer, and is readily distinguished when
the car is allowed to run idly down grade— or upon speeding the car to twenty -five
miles an hour, then suddenly closing the throttle, the tapping will be very distinct.
i4) The crank shaft main bearing knock can be distinguished, when the car is
going uphill, asa dull thud. (5) The loose piston knock is heard only upon suddenly
opening the throttle, when the sound produced might be likened to a rattle. The
remedies for these knocks are treated under their proper division,
Hnte is carbon removed from . -- ort
Combustion. Chamber? Answer Mo. JU
First, drain the water off by opening the pet cock at the bottom of the radiator:
then disconnect the wires at the top of the motor and also the radiator connection
attached to the radiator. Remove the 15 cap screws which hold the cylinder head
in place. Take off the cylinder head and, with a putty knife or screw-driver, scrape
the carbonized matter from the cylinder head and top of pistons, being careful to
prevent the specks of carbon from getting into the cylinders or bolt holes. In re-
placing the cylinder head gasket turn the motor over so that No. 1 and No. 4
pistons are at top center; place the gasket in position over the pistons and then put
the cylinder head in place. Be sure and draw the cylinder head bolts down
evenly (i. e., give each bolt a few turns at a time) ; do not tighten them on one end
before drawing them up at the other.
How are Spark , *t <n
Plug* cleaned? Answer No. 31
After removing the plug from the engine the points may be cleaned with an old
tooth-brush dipped in gasoline. However, in order to do the work thoroughly,
the plug should be taken apart by securing the large hexagon steel shell in a vise
and loosening the pack nut which holds the porcelain in place. The carbon
deposits can then be easily removed from the porcelain and shell with a small
knife. Care should be exercised not to scrape off the glazed surface of the porcelain,
otherwise it will be apt to carbonize quickly. The porcelain and other parts should
finally be washed in gasoline and wiped dry with a cloth.
THE FORD ENGINE
In assembling the plug care should be taken to see that the pack nut is not tight-
ened too much so as to crack the porcelain, and the distance between the sparking
points should be &*, about the thickness of a smooth dime.
Dirty plugs usually result from an excess of oi! being carried in the crank case
or from using oil of poor quality.
"""' ''" *• Pf "7 r ',''"'" Answer No. 32
removed from Car? "*""
(1) Drain the water out of the radiator and disconnect the radiator hose;
(2) disconnect the radiator stay rod which holds it to the dash;
(3) take out the two bolts which fasten the radiator to the frame and take radiator
on;
(4) disconnect the dash at the two supporting brackets which rest on the frame;
(5) loosen the steering post bracket, fastened to the frame, when the dash and
steering gear may be removed as one assembly — the wires first having been
disconnected ;
(6) take out the bolts holdina the front radius rods in the socket underneath the
crank case ;
(7) remove the four bolts at the universal joint;
*(8) remove pans on either side of cylinder castin 3 and turn off gasoline, disconnect
feed pipe from carburetor;
(9) disconnect exhaust manifold fro;u exhaust pipe by unscrewing large brass
pack nut;
(10) take out the two cap screws which hold the crank case to the front frame;
(11) remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the frame at the side.
Then pass a rope through the opening between the two middle cylinders and tie in
a loose knot. Through the rope pass a "2x4," or a s'.out iron pipe about ten feet
long and let a man hold each end; let a third man take hold of the starting crank
handle, when the whole power plant can be lifted from the car to the work bench
for adjustment.
Connecting /W ftenrings Artwe-r No 33
—hotvan-ju.sici/ Answer iVO. J J
Connecting rod bearings may be adjusted, without taking out the engine, by the
following method : ( 1 ) drain off the oil; (2) remove plate on bottom of crank case-
exposing connecting rods; (3) take off first connecting rod cap. and draw-file the
ends — a very little at a time: (4) replace cap, being careful to see that file marks
correspond, and tighten bolts until it fits shaft snugly; (5) test tightness of bearing
by turning engine over by the starting handle. Experienced mechanics usually
determine when the bearing is properly fitted by lightly tapping each side of the
cap with a hammer; (6) then loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the °tnej
bearings in the same manner; (7) after each bearing has been properly fitted and
tested — then tighten the cap bolts and the work is finished.
Remember, there is a possibility of getting the bearings too tight, and under such
conditions the babbitt is apt to cut out quickly, unless precaution is taken to run
the motor slowly at the start. It is a good plan after adjusting the bearings to
jack up the rear wheels and let the motor run slowly for about two hours I keeping
it well supplied with water and oil) before taking it out on the road. Whenever
possible these bearings should be fitted by an expert Ford mechanic.
Worn connecting rods may be returned, prepaid, to the nearest dealer or branch
house for exchange at a price of $ 1 .00 each to cover the cost of rebabbitting. 1 1 is
not advisable for any owner or repair shop to attempt the rebabbitting of connect-
ing rods or main bearings, for without a special jig in which to form the bearings.
IS THE FORD MANUAL
satisfactory results will not be obtained. The constant tapping of a loose connect-
ing rod on the crank shaft will eventually produce crystallization of the ateel —
result, broken crank shaft and possibly other parts of the engine damaged.
('rank Sim) I Main Hearings
— haw adjusted? Answer No. 34
Should the stationary bearings in which the crank shaft revolves become worn
(evidenced by a pounding in the motor) arid need replacing or adjusting, proceed
as follows:
(1) After the engine has been taken out of the car, remove crank case, trans-
mission cover, cylinder head, pistons, connecting rods, transmission and magneto
coils. Take off the three babbitted caps and clean the bearing surfaces with gaso-
line. Apply Prussian blue or red lead to the crank shaft bearing surfaces, which will
enable you, in fitting the caps, to determine whether a perfect bearing surface is
obtained.
[ 2) Place the rear cap in position and tighten it up as much as possible without
stripping the bolt threads. When the bearing has been properly fitted, the crank
shaft can be turned with one hand. If the crank shaft cannot be turned with one
hand, the contact between the bearing surfWrs is evidently too close, and the cap
requires shimming up, one or two brass liners usually being sufficient. In case
the crank shaft moves too easily with one hand, the shims should be removed and
the steel surface of the cap filed off, permitting it to set closer.
(3) After removing the cap, observe whether the blue or red "spottings" indicate a
full bearing the length of the cap. If "spottings" do not show a true bearing, the
babbitt should be scraped and the cap refitted until the proper results are obtained.
4 Lay the rear cap aside and proceed to adjust the center bearing in the same
manner. Repeat the operation with the front bearing, with the other two bearings
laid aside.
(5) When the proper adjustment of each bearing has been obtained, clean the
babbitt surface carefully and place a little lubricating oil on the bearings, also on
the crank shaft; then draw the caps up as closely as possible — the necessary shims,
of course, being in place. Do not be afraid of getting the cap bolts too tight, as
the shim under the cap and the oil between the bearing surfaces will prevent the
metal being drawn into too close contact, ir oil is not put on the bearing surfaces,
the babbitt is apt to cut out when the motor is started up before the oil in the crank
case can get into the bearing. In replacing the crank case and transmission cover
on the motor, it is advisable to use a new set of gaskets to prevent oil leaks.
Ill** Ford Coafisg System
I hiw is the . « r nr
ti^inecootedt Answer No. 35
The heat generated by the constant explosions in the engine would soon overheat
and ruin the engine, were it not cooled by some artificial means. The Ford engine
is cooled by the circulation of water in jackets around the cylinders. The heat is
extracted from the water by its passing through the thin metal tubing of the radia-
tor — to which are attached scientifically worked out fins, which assist in the rapid
radiation of the heat. The fan, just back of the radiator, sucks the air around the
tubing —around which the air is also driven by the forward movement of the car.
The belt should be inspected frequently and tightened when necessary— not too
tight, however — by means of the adjusting screw in the fan bracket. Take up the
slack till the fan starts to bind when turned by hand.
Hate does the _- OJ ,
\\,„er circulate? Answer No. 36
The cooling apparatus of the Ford car is known as the Thcrmo-syphon system.
It acts on the principle that hot water seeks a higher level than cold water
consequently when the water reaches a certain heat, approximately 180 degrees
Fahrenheit, circulation commences and the water flows from the lower radiator
outlet pipe up through the water jackets, into the upper radiator water tank, and
down through the tubes to the lower tank, to repeat the process.
What arc the causes of
ihcrheating? Answer No. 37
1 1) Carbonized cylinders; (2) too much driving on low speed; (3) spark retarded
too far; (4) poor ignition; (5) not enough or poor grade oil; l6) racing motor; (7)
clogged muffler; (8) improper carburetor adjustment; (9) fan not working properly
on account of broken Or slipping belt; (10) improper circulation of water due to
clogged or jammed radiator tubes, leaky connections or low water.
What, should he dune vrhen the jir oo
Hadiatar overheats? AllSWer No. 38
Keep the radiator full. Don't get alarmed if it boils occasionally — especially in
driving through mud and deep sand or up long hills in extremely warm weather.
Remember that the engine develops the greatest efficiency when the water is heated
nearly to the boiling point. But if there is persistent overheating when the motor
is working under ordinary conditions — find the cause of the trouble and remedy
it. The chances are that the difficulty lies in improper driving or carbonized
cylinders. Perhaps twisting the fan blades at a greater angle to produce more
suction may bring desired results. By reference to the proper division of this book
each of the causes which contribute to an overheated radiator is treated and
remedies suggested. No trouble can result from the filling of a heated radiator
with cold water — providing the water system is not entirely empty — in which case
the motor should be allowed to cool before the cold water is introduced.
Hote about clea it i ri ft
the Radiator? Answer No. 39
The entire circulating system should be thoroughly flushed out occasionally. To
do this properly, the radiator inlet and outlet hose should be disconnected, and the
radiator flushed out by allowing the water to enter the filler neck at ordinary
pressure, from whence it will flow down through the tubes and out at the drain
cock and hose. The water jackets can be flushed out in the same manner. Simply
The Thcrmo-Syphon Cooling System, showing course of water through water passages. (Cut No. 6)
THE COOLING SYSTEM 19
allow the water to enter into the cylinder head connection and to flow through the
water jackets and out at the side inlet connection.
Will the Kntliatnr
freeze in winter? Answer No. 40
Yes, unless an an ti -Freezing solution is used in the circulating system you are
bound to experience trouble. As the circulation does not commence until the
water becomes heated, it is apt to freeze at low temperature before it commences
to circulate. In case any of the radiator tubes happen to be plugged or Jammed
they are bound to freeze and burst open if the driver undertakes to get along
without using a non-freezing solution. Wood or denatured alcohol can be used
to good advantage. The following table gives the freezing points of solutions con-
taining different percentages of alcohol ;
20% solution freezes at 1 5 degrees above zero.
30% solution freezes at 8 degrees below zero, t
50% solution freezes at 34 degrees below zero.
A solution composed of 60% water, 10% glycerine and 30% alcohol is commonly
used, its freezing point being about 8 degrees below zero.
On account of evaporation fresh alcohol must be added frequently in order to
maintain the proper solution.
/foil' ore leaks and jams in the
Radiator repaired? Answer No. 41
A small leak may be temporarily repaired by applying brown soap or white lead —
but the repair should be made permanent with solder as soon as possible. A
jammed radiator tube is a more serious affair. While the stopping of one tube
does not seriously interfere with the circulation, it is bound to cause trouble sooner
or later — and the tube will freeze in cold weather. Cut the tube an inch above
and below the jam and insert a new piece, soldering the connections. If the
entire radiator is badly jammed or broken it would probably be advisable to
install a new one.
i s Tank
Necdk \
Air Gate Lever
Stop Cock
Sediment Bulb
Sediment Bulb
Drain Cock
Screen
(Gasoline Strairte?
ir Intake Gate
Gasoline Inlet Needle
Feed Pipe
liik-i Pipe
Needle Valve
Lock Screw
Thro t lie Lever
Clamp Screw
Throttle
Stop Screw
Throttle Gate
Cork Float
Carburetor
Drain Cock
This cut illustrates the principle of Ford Carburetion. ^Cut No. 7)
The Gasoline System
I'h f t '.urti ti n'titr — it «tu-
doea ii „-„ r k? Answer No. 42
The carburetor is of the automatic float feed type, having but one adjustment —
the gasoline needle valve. The cross- section diagram of carburetor on page 20
shows how the gasoline enters the carburetor, is vaporized by a current of air and
passes through the inlet pipe to the engine in the form of an explosive mixture.
The gasoline, entering the bowl of the carburetor, gradually raises the float to a
point where the inlet needle is forced upwards into its seat, thus cutting off the
flow of gasoline. As the gasoline in the bowl recedes, the float lowers, allowing
the needle to drop from its seat and the flow of gasoline is resumed. It is plain to
see that a constant level of gasoline is maintained in the carburetor by the auto
matic action of float and needle. The quantity of gasoline entering into the mixture
is governed by the needle valve (see Answer No. 45). The volume of gas mixtun
entering the intake pipe is controlled by opening and closing the throttle, accord-
ing to the speed desired by the driver.
Why is (jirhurelar adjustment
iilarr,i „„ ,t,isU? Answer No. 43
For the convenience of the driver in adjusting the carburetor. Aftir the new car
has become thoroughly worked in, the driver should observe the angle of the car-
buretor adjusting rod at which the engine runs most satisfactorily. In cold
weather it will probably be found necessary to turn the dash adjustment one-
quarter turn to the left, particularly in starting a cold engine. As gasoline vapor-
izes readily in warm weather, the driver will find it economical to reduce the quan-
tity of gasoline in the mixture by turning the carburetor adjustment to the right
as far as possible without reducing speed. This is particularly true when talons
long drives where conditions permit a fair rate of speed being maintained, and
accounts for the excellent gasoline mileage obtained by good drivers.
If hut is meant hv ri *'lvini"
and a "Hch" Mixture? Answer No, 44
A lean mixture has too much air and not enough gasoline. A rich mixture has too
much gasoline and not enough air. A rich mixture will not only quickly cover the
cylinders, pistons and valves with carbon, but will tend to overheat the cylinders,
and is likewise wasteful of the fuel. It will often choke the engine and cause mis
firing at slow speeds, although at high speeds the machine will run perfectly. Th>
mixture should he kept as lean as possible without the sacrifice of any of the power
of the motor. A lean mixture will often result in backfiring through the carburetor,
for the reason that the gas bums slowly in the cylinder, and is still burning when
the inlet valve opens again, which causes the gas in the intake to ignite, A rirh
mixture is shown by heavy, hlack exhaust smoke with a disagreeable smell.
Proper mixture will cause very little smoke or odor,
Hotfi is the ilarhuretar
adjusted? Answer No. 45
The usual method of regulating the carhuretor is to start the motor, advancing
the throttle lever to about the sixth notch, with the spark retarded to about tin-
fourth notch. The flow of gasoline should now be cut off by screwing the needle
valve down to the right until the engine begins to misfire, then gradually increase
the gasoline feed by opening the needle valve until the motor picks up and reaches
its highest spied and no trace of hlack smoke comes from the exhaust. Whenever
it is necessary to turn the adjusting needle down more than a quarter turn below
111 |
THE FORD MANUAL
its normal position, the lock nut on top of the carburetor at the point through
which needle passes should first be loosened, as otherwise it is impossible to tell
when the needle is turned down in its seat too far. Turning the needle down too
tightly will result in its becoming grooved and the seat enlarged. When these parts
are damaged it is difficult to maintain proper adjustment of the carburetor. Hav-
ing determined the point where the motor runs at its maximum speed, the needle
valve lock nut should be tightened to prevent the adjustment being disturbed. For
average running, a lean mixture will give better results than a rich one.
Why does i tnter . Ar A£
clog the Carburetor? Answer No. 46
The presence of water in the carburetor or gasoline tank, even in small amounts,
will prevent easy starting and the motor will misfire and stop. As water is heavier
than gasoline it settles to the bottom of the tank and into the sediment bulb along
with other foreign matter. As it is difficult nowadays to get gasoline absolutely
free from impurities, especially water, it is advisable to frequently drain the sedi-
ment bulb under the gasoline tank. During cold weather the water which accumu-
lates in the sediment bulb is likely to freeze and prevent the flow of gasoline
through the pipe leading to the carburetor. Should anything of this kind happen
it is possible to open the gasoline line by wrapping a cloth around the sediment
bulb and keeping it saturated with hot water for a short time. Then the water
should be drained off. In event the water gets down into the carburetor and
freezes, the same treatment may be applied.
What mokes the A-,,™.. fJ A7
Carburetor leak? Answer 1\0. */
The flow of gasoline entering the carburetor through the feed pipe is automatically
regulated by the float needle raising and lowering in its seat. Should any particle
of dirt become lodged in the seat, which prevents the needle from closing, the
gasoline will overflow in the bowl of the carburetor and leak out upon the ground.
If 'hen there is dirt . « r AB
in the Corhuretor-iehat? Answer No. 48
The spraying nozzle of the carburetor having a very small opening, a minute
particle of grit or other foreign matter will clog up the orifice, and result : motor will
begin to misfire and slow down as soon as it has attained any considerable speed.
This is accounted for by the fact that at high speeds the increased suction will
draw the particles of dust, etc., into the nozzle. By opening the valve needle half a
turn and giving the throttle lever two or three quick pulls the dirt or sediment
will often be drawn through, when the needle may be turned back to its original
place. If this does not accomplish the purpose, the carburetor should be drained.
If Engine runs too font, or choke* . j^ JQ
Lhthrottleretorded-what? AnSWet No. 49
If the engine runs too fast with throttle fully retarded unscrew the carburetor
throttle lever adjusting screw until the engine idles at suitable speed. If the nl o tor
chokes and stops when throttle is fully retarded the adjusting screw should be
screwed in until it strikes the boss, preventing the throttle from closing too far.
When proper adjustment has been made, tighten lock-screw so that adjustment
will not be disturbed,
What is the purpose of AntwrrNo 50
the Hot Air Pipe? Answer /VO. JU
It takes the hot air from around the exhaust pipe and conducts it to the carbure-
tor— where the heat facilitates the vaporising of the gasoline. It is usually advis-
THE GASOLINE SYSTEM 13
able to remove this pipe in the hot season — but it is an absolutely necessary feature
during cold weather.
What is the purptme af the
Cork Float? Answer No. 51
It automatically controls the flow of the gasoline into the carburetor. If it floats
too low, starting will be difficult; if too high, the carburetor will flood and leak.
A cork float which has become fuel soaked should be removed and replaced by a
new one or thoroughly dried and then given a couple of coats of liquid shellac to
make it waterproof.
Should Priming Hint be uned ill
starting tche.ii Motor is inirm? Answer No. 52
No. The carburetor does not ordinarily require priming when the motor is warm,
and starting with the rod pulled out is apt to "flood" the engine with an over-
rich mixture of gas, which does not readily explode. This naturally causes difficulty
in starting. If you should accidentally flood the engine, turn the carburetor
adjusting needle down (to the right) until it seats; then turn the engine over a few
times in order to exhaust the rich gas. As soon as the motor starts, turn back
the needle (to the left) and readjust the carburetor.
Cot! Bo
Na I
No 2
No 1
No i
Hwtl K* Switch WtrC
Hewn ro Tcnmrut Wire
Nj I SpM PI".' Wi.l-
No 2 Sp^r»t PU W«
ftfi r|.jj£ Wl'C
Na 1 Spirt P(u* VWc
Hem
Mtgpcio Contact
CommuaiQf Wire .
Assonbty 5-wsy Cable
_Lini|C -
Grounded u f.
La-»np Connecting Wnt
EkuJrt, HddEijjht
No I Btu.li
No ? r^J
No J ft,*
No * C»«n
Wiring of Ford Ignition System. iCut No. 8i
Thr Fori! Ignition System
H Imi i.t the purpose 11/ ,
,1,,. tgnttton Syetem? Answer No. 53
It furnishes the electric spark which explodes the charge in the combustion cham-
ber, thus producing the power which runs the engine. It is important that the
charge be correctly ignited at the proper time, in order to obtain satisfactory
results in running the car. In the Ford car the ignition system is as simple as it is
possible for human invention to make it.
Bow doet the Magneto _
generate the current? Answer No. 54
In revolving at the same rate of speed as the motor, the magnets on the flywheel
passing the stationary coil spools create an alternating low tension electric current
in coils of wire which are wound around spools fastened to the stationary part of
the magneto, and is carried from these coils to the magneto connection I wire I
leading to the coil box on the dash.
Shputd the Coil Vibrator kt c c
IdjwttmentbediKturbed! 1 Answer No. 55
The present style of coil unit is properly adjusted when it leaves the factory and
this adjustment should not be disturbed unless to install new points or to reduce
the gap between the points which may have increased from wear. When adjust-
ments are necessary they should, whenever possible, be made by one of our service
stations who have special equipment for testing and adjusting units and will
gladly furnish expert service. If the points are pitted they should be filed flat with
a fine double-faced file and the adjusting thumb nut turned down so that with the
spring held down the gap between the points will be a trifle less than j 1 .,* of an inch.
Then set the lock nut so that the adjustment can not be disturbed. Do not
bend or hammer on the vibrators, as this would affect the operation of the cushion
spring of the vibrator bridge and reduce the efficiency of the unit.
How is « I' •'»''" . « T cs
Unit delected? AnSWBT No. 56
With the vibrators properly adjusted, if any particular cylinder fails or seems to
develop only a weak action, change the position of the unit to determine if the
fault is actually in the unit. The first symptom of a defective unit is the buzzing of
the vibrator with no spark at the plug. Remember that a loose wire connection,
faulty spark plug, or worn commutator may cause irregularity in the running
of the motor. These are points that should be considered before laying the blame
on the coil.
//oil! may short circuit in
Commutator Wiring he detected? Answer No. 5/
Should the insulation of the primary wires (running from coil to commutator)
become worn to such an extent that the copper wire is exposed —the current will
leak out (i. e. short circuit) whenever contact with the engine pan or other metal
parts is made. A steady buzzing of one of the coil units will indicate a "short" in
the wiring. When driving the car the engine will suddenly lag and pound on
account of the premature explosion. Be careful not to crank the engine downward
against compression when the car is in this condition, as the "short" is apt to
cause a vigorous kick back.
[Mi
26
THE FORD MANUAL
Answer No. 58
lhn:i Coil Adjustment
affect starting?
Yes. When the vibrators are not properly adjusted more current is required to
make and break the contact between the points, and, as a result, at cranking
speeds you would not get a spark between the spark plug points. Do not allow
the contact points to become "ragged," otherwise they are apt to stick and cause
unnecessary difficulty in starting, and when running they are apt to produce an
occasional "miss" in the engine.
Answer No. 59
What is the pnrfmse nj
the Com m utator?
The commutator (or timer) determines the instant at which the spark plugs must
fire. It effects the "make and break" in the primary circuit. The grounded wire
in the magneto allows the current to flow through the metal parts to the metal
roller in the commutator. Therefore, when the commutator roller in revolving
touches the four commutator contact points, to each of which is attached a wire
Pull Rod Cormeaion
Case
Thumb Nui
Coniaci Poini
Roller Arm
Brush
"*- Engine Cover
The Ford Commutator. (Cut No. 9)
connected with a coil unit, an electrical circuit is passed through the entire system
of primary wires. This circuit is only momentary, however, as the roller passes
over the contact point very rapidly and sets up the circuit in each unit as the roller
touches the contact point connected with that unit. The commutator should be
kept clean and well oiled at all times.
What about.
the Spark Plugs? Answer No. 60
One is located at the top of each cylinder and can easily be taken out with the
spark plug wrench included with every car, after the wire connection is removed.
The high voltage current flows out of the secondary coils in the coil box and on
reaching the contact points in each spark plug it is forced to jump a J 1 }" gap,
thereby forming a spark which ignites the gasoline charge in the cylinders.
The spark plugs should be kept clean (i. e., free from carbon) and should be re-
placed if they persist in not working properly. There is nothing to be gained by
experimenting with different makes of plugs. The make of plugs with which Ford
engines are equipped when they leave the factory are best adapted to the require-
ments of our motor, notwithstanding the opinion of various garage men to the
THE FORE IGNITION SYSTEM '17
contrary. All wire connections to spark plugs, coil box and commutator should,
of course, at all times be kept in perfect contact.
What are the indieationa of . r t
Ignite* trouble? Answer No. 61
The uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that one or more cylinders are
exploding irregularly or not at all, and that the trouble should be promptly located
and overcome. Misfiring, if allowed to continue, will in time injure the engine and
the entire mechanism. If you would be known as a good driver you will be satis-
fied only with a soft, steady purr from the exhaust. If anything goes wrong, stop
and fix it if possible— don't wait until you get home.
How can one tell whirh
Cylinder U missing? Answer /VO. OJ
This is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark coils. Open the throttle
until the engine is running at a good speed and then hold down the two outside
vibrators, No, 1 and No, 4, with the fingers, so they cannot buzz. This cuts out
the two corresponding cylinders, No. 1 and No. 4, leaving only No, 2 and No. 3
running. If they explode regularly it is obvious the trouble is in either No. 1 or No.
<t. Relieve No. 4 and hold down No. 2 and No, 3 and also No. 1 ; if No. 4 cylinder
explodes evenly it is evident the misfiring is in No. 1. In this manner all of the
cylinders in turn can be tested until the trouble is located , Examine both the spark
plug and the vibrator of the missing cylinder.
// fde Call and Plug are „ T „
ri g ht~what? Answer No. 63
The trouble is probably due to an improperly seated valve, worn commutator, or
short circuit in the commutator wiring. Weakness in the valves may be easily
determined by lifting the starting crank slowly the length of the stroke of each
cylinder in turn, a strong or weak compression in any particular valve being easily
detected. It sometimes happens that the cylinder head gasket (packing) becomes
leaky — permitting the gas under compression to escape, a condition that can be
detected by running a little lubricating oil around the edge of the gasket and notic-
ing whether bubbles appear or not.
lh>en a learn Commutator . ,, -.
ever cause misfiring? Answer No. 64
Yes, If misfiring occurs when running at high speed, inspect the commutator.
The surface of the circle around which roller (see Cut No. 9) travels should be
clean and smooth, so that the roller makes a perfect contact at allpoints. If the
roller fails to make a good contact on any one of the four contact points, its corres-
ponding cylinder will not fire. Clean these surfaces, if dirty. In case the fibre, con-
tact points and roller of the commutator are badly worn the most satisfactory
remedy is to replace them with new parts. The spring should be strong enough to
make a firm contact between the roller points if they are worn or dirty-
Misfiring may also be caused by short circuited commutator wires.
How is the . A? At
Commutator rental tdY Answer 1VO. 00
Remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter from commutator. Loosen t he
cap screw which goes through breather pipe on top of time gear cover. This will
release the spring which holds the commutator case in place and this part can be
readily removed. Unscrew lock nut; withdraw steel brush cap and drive out the
retaining pin. The brush can then be removed from the cam shaft.
THE FORD MANUAL
tn replacing the brush, care must be exercised to see that it is replaced so that the
ust valve on the first cylinder is closed when the brush points upward. This
may be ascertained by removing the valve door and observing the operation of No,
1 valve.
/Me.s i-irlfl teoathar effect
the Commutator? Answer No. 66
It is a well-known fact that in cold weather even the best grades oflubricating oil
are apt to congeal to some extent. If this Occurs in the commutator it is very apt
to prevent the roller from making perfect contact with the contact points imbedded
in the fibre. This, of course, makes difficult starting as the roller arm spring is not
stiff enough to brush away the film of oil which naturally forms over the contact
points. To overcome this, as well as any liability of the contact points to rust, we
recommend a mixture of 25% kerosene with commutator lubricating oil, which will
thin it sufficiently to prevent congealing, or freezing, as it is commonly called. You
have probably noticed in starting your car in cold weather that perhaps only one
ortwo cylinders will fire for the first minute of so, which indicates that the timer
is in the condition described above and as a consequence a perfect contact is not
being made on each of the four terminals.
Bow ll the
Magneta removed? Answer No. 67
It is necessary to take the power plant out of the car (see Answer No. 32) in order
to remove the magneto. Then remove crank case and transmission cover — take
out the four cap screws that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft. You will then
r
Magneto Coil Spoo!
Copper Wire
End ol
Grounded
To C -\\
Magneto Coil Support
The Ford Magneto. The flywheel with magnets revolves while
magneto coils remain stationary. (Cut No. 10)
THE tOHLl IGNITION SYSTEM
have access to the magnets and entire magneto mechanism. In taking out these
parts — or any parts of the car— the utmost care should be taken to make sura that
the parts are so marked that they may be replaced properly.
Answer No. 68
it httn I In- Viifitirlti
arts tint of unitr — H'h<it?
The Ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and there is very little likelihood
of i heir ever losing their strength, unless acted upon by some outside force. For
instance, the attachment of a storage battery to the magneto terminal will
demagnetize the magnets. If anything like this happens, it is not advisable to t rv
to recharge them, but rather install a complete set of new magnets. The new
magnets wilt be sent from the nearest agent or branch house, and will be placed on
a board in identically the same manner as they should be when installed on the
flywheel. Great care should be taken in assembling the magnets and lining up the
magneto so that the faces of the magnets are separated from the surface of the coil
spool just ^ of an inch. To take out the old magnets, simply remove the cap screw
and bronze screw which holds each in place. The magneto is often blamed when
the trouble is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign matter accumulating
under the contact spring, which is held in place by the binding post on top of the
crank case cover. Remove the three screws which hold the binding post in place,
remove binding post and spring and replace after foreign substance has been
removed.
Flywheel
FJ V Whed
Triple Ge*r-
TfipJe Gear Shaft
Reverse Drum Bushing
Stew Speed Drum Buying
Cluich Dtscs
Cluich Disc Drum
Clutch Finjter Prn
Gulch Push Ring
Drtving Piatt
Clutch Finger Adi Screw
Clurch Finger
Ouicfi Spring
C Kirch SprirtR Supporr
Cluich Shifi
Cluich Disc Drum Key
Driven Gear Sleeve Bushing
na&A 5hah
Brake Drum
Driving Plate Screw
Slow Speed Drum
Transmission showing all gears in mesh. (Cut No. 11)
The Ford Transmission
lui tUt he function of A „ vwf>r Nn 6 9
the Transmission? Answer 1\G. Of
It is that part of the mechanism of an automobile which lies between the crank
shaft and the drive shaft and by which one is enabled to move at different speeds
from the other. It is the speed gear of the car. It sends the car forward at low and
high speeds and by it the car is reversed.
What is meant by the term . M ~ n
-Planetary Transmit,,,,?" AtlSWer No. 70
One in which the groups of gears always remain in mesh and revolve around a main
axis. The different sets of gears are brought into action by stopping the revolution
of the parts which support the gears. By means of bands (similar to brake bands I
the rotation of the different parts is stopped. The planetary transmission is the
simplest and most direct means of speed control— and is a distinct advantage of
the Ford car.
What is the purpose A »t_ n «
„/ the Clutch? Answer No. 71
If the crank shaft of the engine ran without break straight through to the differen-
tial — and through it applied its power direct to the rear wheels— the car would
start forward immediately upon the starting of the engine (were it possible to get
it started under such conditions). To overcome this difficulty the shaft is
divided and by means of the clutch the part of the shaft to which the running
engine is delivering its power is enabled to take hold of the unmoving part grad-
ually and start the car without jolt or jar. The forward part of the shaft is referred
to as the crank shaft, the rear part as the drive shaft.
uZl controlled? Answer No. 72
By the left pedal at the driver's feet (see Answer No. 10). If the clutch pedal, when
pushed forward into slow speed, has a tendency to stick and not come back readily
into high, tighten up the slow speed band as directed in Answer No, 74. Should
the machine have an inclination to creep forward when cranking, it indicates that
the clutch lever screw which bears on the clutch lever cam has worn, and requires
an extra turn to hold the clutch in neutral position. When the clutch is released by
pulling back the hand lever the pedal should move forward a distance of 1 %" in
passing from high speed to neutral. See that the hub brake shoe and connections
are in proper order so that the brake will act sufficiently to prevent the car creeping
very far ahead. Also be sure the slow speed band does not bind on account of being
adjusted too tight. Don't use a too heavy grade of oil in cold weather as it will
have a tendency to congeal between the clutch discs and prevent proper action of
the clutch.
II, nr is the A ,- -_
Clutch adju*,eJ? Answer No. 73
Remove the plate on the transmission cover under the floor boards at the driver's
feet. Take out the cotter key on the first clutch finger and give the set screw one-
half to one complete turn to the right with a screw-driver. Do the same to the
other finger set screws. But be sure to give each the same number of turns and
don't forget to replace the cotter key. And after a considerable period of service
I 31 ]
Clutch Pedal Support
Reverse Pedal Support
Bra*e P«UI Suppwi
Reverse BarxJ
Slow Speed Connecnon. Lock
Slow Speed Connection Clcv>v
Clutch Lever Screw
Ckiich Lever Screw Nut
Clukh L«w
Speed Lever
Magneie Ccm
— Trinunmion Cotfe
Reverie Ped-i 1
Transmn^on Bind 5prir>£i
Revert* A
Slow S'ptiJ Shftfi
5la« Speed AJiirvi;r.,- Nut
Sljvi Speed Aji ■ i; Sc^eW
-^- — z -^~ — — Brake Adjui!ifi£ N r ui
■ > N^ Brakc PcdiJSKih
"Driving, FLmc Sere,-.
Cfuicb Finger
— Clutch F
ft*J«L*e Fork
C luich Lever 3
■
The above drawing of Transmission shows clearly the operation of Clutch, Reverse and Brake Pedals. ^Cut No. 12)
THE FORD TRANSMISSION 3X
the wear in the clutch may be taken up by installing another pair of clutch discs,
rather than by turning the adjusting screws in too far,
CAUTION: Let us warn you against placing any small tools or objects over or in
1 he transmission case without a good wire or cord attached to them. Otherwise if
they are dropped into the transmission case it is almost impossible to recover them
without taking off the transmission cover.
Hotr tire tin- * *.t *r j
BaodaadJMUxi? Answer No. 74
The slow speed band may be tightened by loosening the lock nut at the right side
of the transmission cover, and turning the adjusting screw < see Cut No. 12J to the
right. To tighten the brake and reverse bands remove the transmission cover
door and turn the adjusting nuts on the shafts to the right. See that the bands do
not drag on the drums when disengaged, as they exert a brake effect, and tend to
overheat the motor. However, the foot brake should be adjusted so that a sudden
pressure wiJI stop the car immediately, or slide the rear wheels in case of emergency.
The bands, when worn to such an extent that they will not take hold properly,
should be relined, so that they will engage smoothly without causing a jerky move-
ment of the car. The lining is inexpensive and may be had at any Ford service
station at small cost.
Iliiw are I he a kt tc
b ( „.,w. ed? Answer No. 75
Remove the starting motor (see Answer No. 128). Take off the door on top of
transmission cover. Turn the reverse adjustment nut and the brake adjustment
nut to the extreme end of the pedal shafts, then remove the slow speed adjusting
screw. Remove the bolts holding the transmission cover to crank case and lift off
the cover assembly. Slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first of the triple
gears, them turn the band around so that the opening is downward. The band
can now be removed by lifting upward. Theoperation is moreeasily accomplished
if the three sets of triple gears a re so placed that one set is about ten degrees to the
right of center at top, Eachbandisremovedbythe same opera Hon. It is necess a r y
to shove each band forward on to the triple gears as at this point only is there
sufficient clearance in the crank case to allow the ears of the transmission bands
to be turned downward. By reversing this operation the bands may be installed.
After being placed in their upright position on the drums pass a cord around the
ears of the three bands, holding them in the center so that when putting the
transmission cover in place no trouble will be experienced in getting the pedal
shafts to rest in the notches in the band ears. The clutch release ring must be
placed in the rear groove of the clutch shift. With the coyer in place remove
the cord which held the bands in place while the cover was being installed.
Htm- tj* lite TrnitsniisKinn ., 4/
astimbtedt Answer No. 76
Cut No. 13 shows the transmission parts in their relative assembling positions and
grouped in their different operations of assembling.
The first operation is the assembling of group No. 2, which is as follows: Place
the brake drum on table 'with the hub in a vertical position, place the slow speed
plate over the hub with gear uppermost. Then place reverse plate over the slow
speed plate so that the reverse gear surrounds the slow speed gear. Fit the two
keys in the hub just above the slow speed gear. Put the driven gear in position
with the teeth downward so that they will come next to the slow speed gear. Take
the three triple gears and mesh them with the driven gear according to the punch
marks on the teeth, the reverse gear or smallest of the triple gear assembly being
%krm> Speed Dnjn
BfjiLc Drum
Did Dium
Ckrtdl Dn$
DrrL-tfbg
ClOtip^
Grots
Transmission parts in their relative assembling positions. (Cut No, 13 J
THE FORD TRANSMISSION
downward. After making sure that the triple gears arc properly meshed tie them
in place by passing a cord around the outside of the three gears. Take the fly-
wheel and place it on the table with the face downward and the transmission
shaft in a vertical position; then invert the group which you have assembled over
the transmission shaft, setting it in position so that the triple gear pins on the
flywheel will pass through the triple gears. This will bring the brake drum on
top in a position to hold the clutch plates, etc. The next step is to fit the clutch
drum key in the transmission shaft. Press the clutch disc drum over the shaft
and put the set screw in place to hold the drum. Put large disc over the clutch
drum, then a small disc, alternating with large and small discs until the entire
set of discs are in position, ending up with a large disc on top.
If a small disc is on top it is liable to fall over the clutch drum in changing the speed
from high to low and as a result you would be unable to change the speed back into
high. Next put the clutch push ring over the clutch drum, and on top of the discs
with the three pins projecting upward (see Group No. 4, Cut No. 13). You will
note the remaining parts are placed as they will be assembled. Next bolt the driv-
ing plate in position so that the adjusting screws of the clutch ringers will bear
against the clutch push ring pins. Before proceeding further it would be a good
plan to test the transmission by moving the plates with the hands. If the trans-
mission is properly assembled they will revolve freely. The clutch parts may
be assembled on the driving plate hub as follows: Slip the clutch shift over the
hub so that the small end rests on the ends of the clutch fingers. Next put on the
clutch spring, placing the clutch support inside so that the flange will rest on the
upper coil of the spring and press into place, inserting the pin in the driving
plate hub through the holes in the side of the spring support. Then turn the
clutch spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the bottom of the support.
The easiest method of compressing the spring sufficiently to insert the pin is
to loosen the tension of the clutch finger by means of the adjusting screws.
When tightening up the clutch again the spring should be compressed to
within a space of two or two and one-sixteenth inches to insure against the clutch
slipping. Care should be exercised to see that the screws in the fingers are ad-
justed so the spring is compressed evenly all around.
The Rear Axle System. (Cut No. 14)
Tin* Kcur Vvlr As*«'mhU
linn- in the Rear „, ,__
txleremmvd? Answer No. 77
Jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed in Answer No. 89. Take out
the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover.
Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing
flanges. Raise frame at the rear end, and the axle can be easily withdrawn.
thnr is the t internal Joiiir dis- „
connectedftlim the Drive Shaft? Answer NO, 78
Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn shaft until pin
comes opposite hole, drive out pin and the joint can be pulled or forced away from
the shaft and out of the housing.
Ilntr are Rear Axle and jit on
IHJJerenlial disassembled? Answer No. 79
With the universal joint disconnected, remove nuts in front end of radius rods and
the nuts on studs holding drive shaft tube to rear axle housing. Remove holts
which hold the two halves of differential housing together, ir necessary to dis-
assemble differential a very slight mechanical knowledge will permit one to imme-
diately discern how to do it once it is exposed to view. Care must be exercised
to get every pin, bolt and keylock back in its correct position when reassembling.
1 1 mi- is the Drive , _ T on
Shaft Pinion returned? Answer No. 80
The end of the drive shaft, to which the pinion is attached, is tapered to fit the
tapered hole in the pinion, which is keyed onto the shaft, and then secured by a
cotter -pinned "castle" nut. Remove the castle nlit, and drive the pinion off.
Ihnr are the Differential „ .
Ceo*-* ren, t »ed? Answer No. 81
The differential gears are attached to the inner ends of the rear axle shaft, Thev
work upon the differential pinions when turning a comer, so that the axle shafts
revolve independently, but when the car is moving in a straight line the difft I
tial pinions and differential gears and axle shafts move as an integral part. If you
will examine the rear axle shafts you will notice that the gears are keyed on, and
held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear
axle shaft. To remove the differential gears, force them down on the shaft, that is.
away from the end to which they are secured, drive out the two halves of ring in the
grooves in shaft with screw-driver or chisel, then force the gears off the end of the
shafts,
llinr is the Rear Ixle
Shaft rentaied? AnSWBt No. 82
Disconnect rear axle as directed in Answer No. 77, then unbolt the drive shaft as-
sembly where it joins the rear axle housing at the differential- Disconnect the radius
rods and brake rods at the outer ends of the housing. Take out the bolts whit h
hold the two halves of the rear axle housing together at the center and remove 1 li<
housing. Take the inner differential casing apart and draw the axle shaft out.
After replacing the axle shaft he sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on hi
the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. When the car hai
been driven thirty days or so, make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up
38
THE FORD MANUAL
the lock nut to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely
important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the constant rocking back
and forth against the kcyway may in time cause serious trouble.
1 iJK
^, Axle Housing C*p
Key
Hub Brake Drum
^^^^9^SH
k^
if" iSa
Cot! Spring -"""^ yS y^mk
Hub BrAfce Can^ ^S*^ 3^B
i
And Shilt-""^ ^/^
#
Hub BmIc Shot/
—
The Ford Emergency Brake. (Cut No. 1 5)
If the rear axle or wheel is sprung by skidding against a curb, or other accident, it is
false economy to drive the car without correcting the trouble, as tires, gears and
all other parts will suffer. If the axle shaft is bent, it can, with proper facilities,
be straightened, but it is best to replace it.
The Ford Muffler
Answer No. 83
Why is lite MuJJler
necessary?
The exhaust as it comes from the engine through the exhaust pipe would create a
constant and distracting noise were it not for the muffler. From the comparatively
imall pipe, the exhaust is liberated into the larger chambers of the muffler, where
the force of the exhaust is lessened by expansion and discharged out of the muffler
with practically no noise. The Ford muffler construction is such that there is very
little back pressure of the escaping gases, consequently there >s nothing to De
gained by putting a cut-out in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the muffler.
How is the MuJJler
disconnec. ted?
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the motor by unscrewing the pack nut and
remove the bolts which hold the muffler to the frame. After the muffler has been
disconnected it can be disassembled by removing the nut at the rear end.
Answer No. 84
[39]
I \w K (inning <«tat
If tint vtin* kHouM tttf
Kttiiaiii/i iUiar httiv'f
Answer No. 85
In the first place it at all times should have proper lubrication (see chapter on
Lubrication). Once in every thirty days the front and rear axles should be care-
fully gone over to see that every moving part, such as the bushings in spring con-
nections, spring hangers, steering knuckles and hub bearings, are thoroughly lu-
bricated, and that all nuts and connections are secured with cotter pins in place.
The spring clips, which attach the front spring to the frame, should be inspected
frequently to see that everything is in perfect order.
Answer No. 86
Hntr in thv Front IxU-
Tflttllfltf'f
Jack up front of car so wheels can be removed (see Answer No. 89), disconnect
steering gear ball arm from the spindle connecting rod, disconnect radius rod at
ball joint, and remove two cotter pin bolts from spring shackle on each side, so
detaching front spring.
To disconnect radius rod from axle, remove cotter-pinned nuts. To remove radius
rod entirely, take the two bolts out of the ball joint and remove lower half of cap.
In rase of Hffitifitt. tunc it the
Friml Axle ntruightf>>tetl?
Answer No. 87
Should the axle or spindle become bent extreme care must be used to straighten
the parts accurately. Do not heat the forgings, a3 this will untempcr the steel, but
straighten them cold. If convenient it would be better to return such parts to the
dealer, where they may be properly straightened in jigs designed for that purpose.
It is very essential that the wheels line up properly (see Answer No. 90).
Stntk O.k-J
SpmdJe Boll-
Spindk Body Budtmg^
Spicule Con Rod Boli
Spindle Con Rod Tl
Spindle Arm
Clamp Bolr/
Spindle Arm Ni
Spindle Body 81
Spmdk Bott Nul
■Spoilt
Fj4i Waiher
Hub Bott
Urge Ball Rice
Hub Flanae
Hub
Spindle
Greaie Chamber
Bill Bearing?
-Adjuring Cone
4-oek Nut
-Hub C*o
■Wadwr
Ball Re inner
Small Ball Race
Stationary Co
ill rtatainn
.1 Ring
The- Ford Spindle and Front Hub Assembly. (Cut No. 16
k
The eye is not sufficiently accurate to determine whether the parts have been
properly straightened, and excessive wear of the front tires will occur if every-
thing is not in perfect alignment. - -
THE RUNNING GEAR
ir/inl (i hon I the , sr oo
it hfek? Answer No. Ob
Tlie wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested, not only for smooth-
ness of running, but for side play as well. If in spinning a front wheel a sharp
click oceurs now and then and the wheel is momentarily checked, it is probable
that there is a chipped or split ball in the bearing which should be removed,
I it In. rwisc it may necessitate the removal of the entire bearing. A wheel in perfect
adjustment should, after spinning, come to rest with the tire valve directly below
the hub. Undue wear of the hub bearings is usually caused by lack of lubri-
cation and excessive friction, due to the adjusting cone being screwed up too
tight. It is a good plan to clean the bearings frequently and keep the hub well
rilled with grease.
Iltnv are the , -- _ _
trAeeb removed? Answer No. 89
Front wheels: Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin and unscrew castle nut and
spindle washer. The adjustable bearing cone can then he takeii out and the
wheel removed. Care should be taken to see that the cones and lock nuts arc
replaced on the same spindle from which they were removed, otherwise there is
a liability of stripping the threads which are left on the left spindle and right on the
opposite as you stand facing the car. Rear wheels: They should not be removed
unless absolutely necessary — in which case proceed as above, then with a wheel
puller remove the wheel from the tapered shaft to which it is locked with a key.
In replacing rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible and
cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear wheels should be removed occasion
ally and the lock nuts which hold the hub in place tightened up. If these nuts
are allowed to work loose, the resulting play on the hub key may eventually
twist off the axle shaft.
lioie dtms the netting of thv Front Wheels
differ from that of the Rear Wheels? Answer ISO, VV
It will be observed that the front wheels are "dished;" that is, the spokes ore
given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet side stresses with less rigid
resistance — while the spokes of the rear wheels are straight. The front wheels
are also placed at an angle — that is to say, the distance between the tops of tht
front wheels is about three inches greater than between the bottoms. _ This is to
give perfect steering qualities and to save wear on the tires when turning corners.
The front wheels should not, however, "toe-in" at the front — at least not more
than a quarter of an inch. Lines drawn along the outside of the wheels when the
latter are straight in a forward position should be parallel. AH wheels should
always be kept in proper alignment, otherwise steering will be difficult and tire
wear greatly increased. Adjustment can be made by turning, the yoke at the
li 1 1 end of the spindle connecting rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel position.
What about installing . ,- rt ,
Roller Bearing Vnps? Answer NO. VI
Whenever it is necessary to install roller bearing cups, either in changing over
from ball bearings to roller bearings or in replacing worn cups, the work should
be done by a Dealer or Garage which has the necessary equipment for this work.
In order to avoid excessive wear of the bearings it is essential that the cups
be fitted absolutely true and this is practically impossible without the use of
special equipment.
Sectional view of Hub showing Roller Bearings. (Cut No, 17)
THE RUNNING GEAR
"ZanJd? h ° Ho " er " earinga Answer No. 92
First, pack the hub full of clean good quality cup grease. Take the inner cone
with its rollers and pack it with grease, filling all of the space around and between
the rollers. Then place the inner cone in the larger cup. Next, drive the dust
ring with felt washer into the inner end of the hub so that it is flush with the end
of the hub.
Place the wheel carrying the inner bearings with dust ring on the spindle. The
inner cone is a one -thousandth fit, or, in other words, a slip fit on the spindle.
(See Cut No. 17.) It is never necessary to force the cone onto the spindle as the
cups are forced into the hub. Pack the outer or threaded cone and rollers with
cup grease, filling all the space between the rollers, as was done with the inner cone.
The cones are made up in right- and left-hand threads to correspond to the threads
on the spindles. Care should be taken that a right-hand threaded cone is not
forced onto a left-hand threaded spindle. The right-hand thread is on the left-
hand side of the car, while the left-hand thread is on the right-hand side of the
car. Place the cone on the spindle, running it up tight enough so that the wheel
seems to bind; give the wheel a few turns to be sure that all the working parts
are in perfect contact; then back off the cone ',{ to Y% a turn which will be suf-
ficient to allow the wheel to revolve freely without end play, To determine if
there is end play, grasp the spokes and shake the wheel. Do not mistake
loose spindle bushings for loose bearings. Insert a cold chisel between axle and
spindle to take up any play while testing the bearings. Next, put on the spindle
washer and nut, drawing the nut to a firm bearing. Make sure that the cone
has not been forced out of adjustment. This can be determined by giving the
wheel a few turns. Insert the cotter pin which locks the nut on the spindle, fill
the hub cap with grease and screw it in place on the huh.
linn often should the , - r „_
Bearings be luhricated? Answer PiO. ?J
Every three or four months the wheels should be removed, the old grease taken
out and the hubs and bearings thoroughly cleansed with kerosene. Then repack
the hub and bearings with clean grease and readjust the bearings.
(f hat care do . , r n ,
the Springs need? Answer No. 94
The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite. To do this,
pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant between them. When ■
ever a car is given a general overhauling, the springs should be disassembled and
the leaves polished with emery cloth, afterwards packing them with graphite
when reassembling. Rust can be prevented from accumulating on the springs
by painting them when necessary with a quick drying black paint. You will
find that these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the riding qualities
of the car but prolong the life of the parts as well.
Should Spring Clips , „, _-
be kept light? Answer No. 95
Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire strain is put on the
tie bolt which extends through the centre of the spring. This may cause the bolt
to be sheared off and allow the frame and body to shift a trifle to one side. It
is a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the frame
and see that they are kept tight.
FORD MANUAL
II hat til/mil lite Steering
ipparatuti Answer No. 96
It is exceedingly simple and will need little care— ^except, of course, proper lubri-
cation. The post gears which are arranged in the "sun and planet" form are
located at the top of the post just below the hub of the wheel (see Cut No. 1).
By loosening the set screw and unscrewing the cap — after having removed the
steering wheel — they may readily be inspected and replenished with grease. To
remove the steering wheel, unscrew the nut on top of the post and drive the wheel
off the shaft with a block of wood and hammer.
Ilmr in Steering
fietir tightened? AtlSWer No. 97
Should the steering gear become loose, that is, so that a slight movement of the
wheel does not produce immediate results, it may be tightened in the following
manner: Disconnect the two halves of the ball sockets which surround the ball
arm at the lower end of the steering post and file off the surface until they fit
snugly around the ball. If the ball is badly worn it is best to replace it with a new
one. Also tighten the ball caps at the other end of (he steering gear connect ing
rod in the same manner. IF the bolts in the steering spindle arms appear to he
loose, the brass bushings should be replaced with new ones (see Cut No, 16!.
Excessive play in the front axle may be detected by grasping one of the front
wheels by the spokes and jerking the front axle back and forth. After the car
has been in service two or three years excessive play in the steering gear may
make necessary the renewal of the little pinions, as well as the brass internal gear
just underneath the steering wheel spider.
It is also advisable to Inspect the front spring and front spring perches occasionally
to determine whether or not new bushings are necessary to overcome any exces-
sive vibration.
> 9
Lubrication Chart. (Cut No. 18}
Tin* Ford I tilni' .iiin- S\k|(iu
Answer No. 98
|Juiri/o#t I In ttutt f ttUtfvlmg
Vtfcm *t\f ft f runt iit^rf'
It u |iff«iii"^J • > ,| Ihrn «r fr*n |.1*,« ta eil PwliraHy *H Af ilvf p*>r*
iWihe etnL»r mti.j im iwi mp n aM an <,J*J ^/ Uw PWd •pU*h ■/•trm fran thrw*
l»« wl (linn* ill line (fink r**r i ,c "... I* ti»jw* Id* |*,.i,p.] ,» n!a c f
.*1*ar<, Ma.1 IfRKdWl nii'A rrp&rii4shmrril thcniM h* PMJlrr, ». .rani, if to
-.* Tfed ifa.ii .i-uM he ii^ll«| carrfUUy ami uttm It H * «<v,i pt*n
ejjuffvily i-isi-iy »1I „.l c U gn *«ih the *»rnf oil *«d ndf npac »i.» «.
'*' > t"Or VLi aMnt oil wiU annm- *r*1 ih# dor* rup* weft cond *»<-#*•• k«
w« *o «t tlut tl>e vo«Bt»u>t«u* it k*t* <<t*\y td^ptud >ni* c»l«i »' t.r..^
AllXlV«r M>, 9P
r4nsu*r*r /Vo. 100
If r, , , J, i • I /,, h* ■ f trot
i»jtJf t*# "I>.-pr" Oi^»?
aft** ft >« adriaaMa to HI <\ ,-- \ cwmiutw ikn> dur»*. retail aUfc ( r .■.».-
mkJ reiMJt Ij^eojirnitaOG 1*90 w thrf* Inwi, AhMbfi «vn ' e* •"• ' ■ ">> <
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" u "" i » ' Ik liJ If dvtfe to weuui* NtffWC, A drrvp of o.l MM . I
IVr* m cr.nk li-aiulfe Lea •Mary . aiiO *#V fart fartl p.4! - , » - d »L.n
, tiiiff Uiili and aarvcfial joint are «k-!I tjpplied wifth lafancaat •Am ll<
ear leave* U« EM ■*&« bm n it «lhp n immt and q,| iVn Jrcqucatiy
FcW kind "f**'t
**■ •**•" "tltt l..|]i p *dr im enguv^ ciiJ toe uh- in |ht M«lt] T
***■«■ A .■,.-,- ,.h| •* if t» 'iit«t4r*Uyr««h thek4«r-
•»1 IMI *lll (|r . r];,fl,\n kiYAkint frl ffril(l^).
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**• tfct< ui| »ii| «<>,! alliyw ilie tuna! t.j cini^ m fK1u«l
' I Hfivy fcNd i»)ln»n tit.]* ba^o ■ *rt*.len. r <i> <-* ,fy, *|»>
C ■ ■ ' i< ' • ' ■ i- ■■ ' i ♦' -<ilvt t1«i*i Will braipiiti. In cold rnkthn n ■
(twreiff , ,; « Ur» cc4d (f*t bttbaAtuttfl) <■*■ rt**l I., lac Bfopa liArlrstioa
' - " ' * ■I'rOtjki rutt be umi »» • I 41k . ■(-.[ in i He cn|it>r or iSr n«r>t-
k »i.«*i i* *,. i bmk , rqijaft ,,- r, ib, ,1 efriaal I •■* h§ •■
'^nio«nu*w,' Answer No. 10!
kilviiab aalicaaebj L]i*irunr 9 n it ir dir*^ oil wkin ihe
"* ntw ii,t».J P ^f and H*y milrt; ikt<*i!<r it vt.ll t-ni» be
J**"' 1 •»"jn itwrtit every W \ea k^iiJjtJ iful (»fl> r«iJaL
■ i i»* Rywlw*] .»».••» and dta«a e# 1a*> 6*1 kri.1"***
* E 1 1 i and pu.u i.i a g* 1*41 ,,1 kcmacaic ad thi<j<i(|» tlie l**c*i*i*r pip*. Tui*
- Nftrm«rlac « *.. n »• : ■ aplatfa Irwa the k-vfowne iitt
MMjikf ■!*•»»»- ■ ' • ' , - Rr*ac • :**e pkiit and draiti 1*™ «'*^
It 11 uf ntal 1 * tbil all Tt.' Itoroamr tx- <r. u.^j f.., ■ 1
"v<cni ui th* , 1.1,1 .a^ rudu tliii p,jt «t». , c c*l
- ii.i»«rf *iul turn tbt rf^irj* u *ci -rtc*! timtt, tr*r» ictac^r mnh . *ir
Jnajaad di*m ofl tl* IfuAhmg vd, ihe*> iep4aee ptu« aad re Ml %,ih i-.nt. :
Aanvr No J
k»«aladr
Kerc,,. 4, 1 f
• Mtj Jritr«*i a*!*' -
jf««F
11 ■ oulter o( fai |ff»ir ,..■.,.■ it.
-
THE FORD LUBRICATING SYSTBM
47
Don't be afraid to put a little oil into the commutator every other day — at least
every 200 miles. Remember that the commutator roller revolves very rapidly,
and without sufficient lubrication the parts soon become badly worn. When
in this condition perfect contact between the roller and the four contact points is
impossible, as a result the engine is apt to misfire when running at a good rate
of speed.
Oiling the Ford Commutai
Cut No. 19)
1 1 /< 1 1 1 a In in I Lubricating
the Differential?
Answer No. 103
Do not make the mistake of putting too much grease in the differential housing.
The housing should not be more than one -third full. The differential is supplied
with the required amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory. The
oil plug should be removed about every 1000 miles and more grease added if
necessary. If a fluid grease is used the level should be approximately one and
one-half inches below the oil hole.
("are of the Tire>
lluw tire Ftird «/w
i ,,<-, removed? Answer No. 104
First, jack up the wheel clear of the road. The valve cap should be unscrewed,
the lock nut removed and the valve stem pushed into the tire until its bead is
flush with the rim. This done, loosen up the head of the shoe in the clinch of
the rim by working and pushing with the hands, then insert one of the tire irons
or levers under the beads. The tire iron should be pushed in just enough to get
a good hold on the under side of the bead, but not so far as to "pinch" the inner
tube between the rim and the tool. A second iron should be inserted in the same
fashion some seven or eight inches from the first, and the third tool the same dis-
tance from the second. As a clincher tire must be pried over the clinch, three
levers will come in handy in a case of a "one-man job," and the knee of the driver
can be used to good advantage to hold down one lever while the other two are
being manipulated in working the shoe clear of the rim. After freeing a length
of the bead from the clinch, the entire outer edge of the casing may be readily
detached with the hands, and the damaged inner tube removed and "patched"
or a spare tube inserted. Always use plenty of sodpstone in replacing an inner
tube.
//<>ir are Cjitsiiiitx _
repaired? AnSWBT NO. 105
Should the casing be cut so there i3 danger of the inner tube being blown through
it, a temporary repair can be made by cementing a canvas patch on the inside
of the casing. Before applying the patch the part of the casing affected should
be cleaned with gasoline and when dry, rubber cement applied to both casing and
patch. This will answer as an emergency repair — but the casing should be vul-
canized at the first opportunity.
To prolong the life of the tire casings, any small cuts in the tread should be filled
with patching cement and a specialty prepared "plastic" sold by the tire com-
panies.
How may Tire /ii/jfiwc
be reduced? Answer No. 106
Tire cost constitutes one of the most important items in the running expenses of
an automobile. To get the most service at the least expense, the tires should be-
inspected frequently and all small cuts or holes properly sealed or repaired- -
thus preventing dirt and water working in between the rubber tread and the fabric,
causing blisters or sand boils.
Tires should never be run partially deflated, as the side walls are unduly bent
and the fabric is subject to stresses which cause what is known as rim cutting.
The chances of getting a puncture will be greatly reduced by keeping your tires
properly inflated, as a hard tire exposes much less surface to the road than a soft
tire, and also deflects sharp objects that would penetrate a soft tire.
Running a tire flat, even for a short distance, is sure to be costly. Better run
on the rim, very slowly and carefully, rather than on a flat tire.
Remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of the tires. Avoid
locking the wheels with the brakes — no tire will stand the strain of being dragged
over the pavement in this fashion.
Avoid running in street car tracks, in ruts, or bumping the sides of the tire against
the curbing.
The wheel rims should be painted each season and kept free from rust.
[«1
CARE OF THE TIRES
When a car is idle for any appreciable length of time, it should be jacked up to
take the load off the tires. If the car ia laid up for many months it is best to
remove the tires, and wrap up the outer casings and inner tubes separately, and
store them in a dark room not exposed to eirtreme temperatures. Remove oil
or grease from the tires with gasoline. Remember that heat, light and oi! arc
three natural enemies of rubber.
How i.-i n puncture in the ,
Inner Tube repaired? Answer No. 107
After locating the puncture, carefully clean the rubber around the leak with
benzine or gasoline. Then roughen the surface with sandpaper to give a hold for
the cement. Apply the cement to both patch and tube, allowing it to dry for
about five minutes, repeating the application twice with like intervals between
for drying. When the cement is dry and sticky press the patch against the tube
firmly and thoroughly to remove all air bubbles beneath it and insure proper
adherence to the surface — then spread some soapstone or talc powder over the
repair so as to prevent the tube sticking to the casing. Before the tube is put
back into the casing plenty of talc powder should be sprinkled into the latter.
A cement patch is not usually permanent and the tube should be vulcanized as
soon as possible. In replacing the tire on the rim be very careful not to pinch
the tube.
Points on Maintenance
\f hut is the pr niter _- jno
«ay to wash the Car? Answer No. 108
Always use cold or lukewarm water— -never hot water. If a hose is used, don't
turn on the water at full force, as this drives the dirt into the varnish and injures
the finish. After the surplus mud and grime have been washed off take a sponge
and clean the body and running gear with a tepid solution of water and Ivory or
linseed oil soap. Rinse off with cold water; then rub dry and polish the body with
a chamois skin. A body or furniture polish of good quality may be used to add
kistre to the car. Grease on the running gear may be removed with a gasoline
soaked sponge or rag. The nickeled parts may be polished with any good metal
polish.
What care doen „, inn
Top need? Answer No. 109
When putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the fabric is not
pinched between the bow spacers, as they will chafe a hole through the top very
quickly. Applying a good top dressing will greatly itnprovc the appearance of
an old top.
What, should be done when . - r , , „
the Car u stored? Answer No. 110
Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in about a quart of denatured
alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may possibly remain. Remove
cylinder head and clean out any carbon deposits in combustion chamber. Draw
off all the gasoline. Drain the dirty oil from the crank case and cleanse the engine
with kerosene as directed in Answer No. 101. Refill the crank case with fresh
oil and revolve the engine enough to cover the different parts with oil. Remove
the tires and store them away. Wash up the car, and if possible cover the body
with a sheet of muslin to protect the finish.
What ,s Urn limi do the Electric »r » » f
Head Lights require? Answer No. Ill
Very little. When the cars leave our factory the lamps are properly focused
and unless the bulb burns out there should be no occasion for removing the door,
as there is nothing to get out of order. Should the door be removed for any reason
care should be exercised not to touch the silver-plated reflector or the bulb with
anything but a soft, clean rag, preferably flannel. To focus the lamps turn the
adjusting screw in the back of lamp in either direction until the desired focus is
attained.
I so |
The Ford M<kM T One Ton TrwA
Ihi I In- IttxlriiVtiiHtx rt'lntiie tit
the Car apply to the Truck? Answer No. 112
The answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the truck, with the excep-
tion of Nos. 79, 80 and 81.
Bow arm the liritr t.tle
and Dijfereittial disassembled? Answer No. 113
With the universal joint disconnected, remove the bolt in front end of radius rods
and the cap screws which hold the drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing.
Then remove the rear axle housing cap; also the bolts which hold the two halves
of the differential housing together. With the differential exposed to view, the
manner of disassembling it will be apparent. Care must be exercised to get
every part back in its correct position when reassembling, being sure to use new
paper liners.
time is the
Worm remmed? Answer No. 114
To remove the worm, drive out the pins which hold the coupling to the worm and
drive shaft. Then remove the felt washer, roller bearing sleeve, and roller
bearing by slipping them over the coupling. Drive tfie coupling off from the
drive shaft and then force the worm from the coupling. Removing the worm nut
will permit the removal of the retaining washer, thrust bearing and rear worm
roller bearing. In reassembling be sure that the pin which holds the retaining
washer stationary is in place.
/fwir is the IHjferentifit t^ear
removed Jr»m the Shaft? Answer No. 115
The differential gear is fastened to the inner end of the rear axle shaft by means
of splines, and is held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a
groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the gear, force it down on the shaft,
that is, away from the end to which it is fastened, drive out the two halves of the
ring in groove in shaft with screw-driver or chisel, and force the gear off the end
of the shaft.
U tint nhimt Lubricating
Hi,- Bear Axle? Answer No. 116
Extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential. An A-I heavy fluid
or semi-fluid oil, such as Mobiloil C or Whittemore's Worm Gear Protective,
should be used and carried at a level with the upper oil plug. The differential
is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the truck leaves the fac-
tory and the supply should be maintained by replenishments as required. After
running the truck about 500 miles, the oil should be drained off by removing
the lower oil plug, and the differential filled with fresh lubricant. This operation
should be repeated at approximately 1000 miles, and after that whenever neces-
sary. The rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means of dope cups.
These cups should be kept filled with a good grade of grease and given a full turn
every 100 miles. Before putting the truck back in service after the rear axle
has been taken down, fill the differential with oil, jack up the axle and run it for
five or ten minutes to insure proper lubrication of all bearings.
r si i
Spring Perch Coffer
• Hub Brake Pnim
■ !M ir
A^le H
kl GiMr C*<w Belt Nus
i*c B^'e Cfnic^V
■ i (Slui
.;<11rr
Worm
Worm C*if
•■>i P«rwon Shifi
A*JeH
■
Dirtfrtmi.il GcM
Ak6c Shaft Colter
AASrJtW«h«
BrJte Expander Lint
ain Plufc
I .h»lIot fViiuifiixviiCotUr
■
^Brak< E^[mii lei Buthina
_ Braid.- 1 i: >
_Aide Brjlf Houvulg PUte (LcfiJ
X
A»k Hcuurtg Ci<ktt (|_rrwrrj
Truck Rear Axle — Longitudinal View. (Cut No. 20)
Axle HouMOfl Cap G
Worn "Rwu« Bearing Rtutfu-i
WormG
Ay\* Houitns Cap.
An-rf Hoiiimg Cap- Scww
Wdrm TThruv Btinng &
Worm Thrun Begins Retime! Pm
tail Tube FUngC Screw
Drive Shv I
' -Pityc Sluft Fdl CnnlSUnPi'
crttJ Joint Hcu*«n£ Plug.
Universal Jpirn Km* U
Urnvrrail Jf irn G-n'hi:w;
Ortv.^- Shaft Guw.
Unti'erul Joint Hcui«>£ Rue
Dnve Sh.ifi
Drive Siuift Tube
Dfirt SfllJl TijIx: ffanRe
Dttvc 5h*fi Tube FUitjic Rtvei
Drive Stufl ro Worm Cr>trpling
Drive Shafi id Worm Coupling Pin
VWiti Roller Bearing Retainer
Dnve Shwfl Tube FUngc G*ihci
Differential Gear Cue
Worm Gear
foil Gap Grease Cup
'■' A Cap
Univeful Jo*ni Homing
Truck Rear Axle — Cross Section showing Worm and Worm Gear. (Cut No. 21)
"Terminal
Drive Shaft -
Pinion
Spring Bendix Cover
Lock
Washer
& k
I
STARTING MOTOR VMo "n""S Bracket
BENDIX ASSEMBLY \
Set Screw
Oil Cup-
Terminal ■
GENERATOR
■Armature Shaft
.Generator Driving
Pinion
Starter and Generator Units. (Cut No. 22)
The Ford Starting and Lighting System
Of irhat does the Starting and
Lighting System consist? Answer No. 117
The starting and lighting system is of the two unit type and consists of the starting
motor, generator, storage battery, a nmeter, and lights, together with the neces-
sary wiring and connections.
Where is the
Starter located? Answer No. 118
The starting motor is mounted on the left-hand side of the engine and bolted to
the transmission cover. When in operation the pinion on the Bendix drive shaft
engages with the teeth on the flywheel.
If hat if the Engine
faih to mart? Answer No. 119
If the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over and the engine fails to start,
the trouble is not in the starting system. In this event release the button at once
so as not to unnecessarily discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor and
ignition system to determine the trouble.
What if the Starling
Motor faih to act? Answer No. 120
If the starting motor fails to act, after pushing the button, first inspect the ter-
minal on the starting motor, the two terminals on the battery and the two ter-
minals on starting switch, making sure all of the connections are tight; then
examine the wiring for a break in the insulation that would cause a short circuit.
If the wiring and connections are O. K. and the starting motor fails to act, test
the battery with a hydrometer. If the hydrometer reading is less than 1.225
l he trouble is no doubt due to a weak or discharged battery.
It hat if the driver steps an Starting
lint ton ut tat engine is running? Answer No. 121
Should, the driver accidentally step on the starting button while the engine is
running, no harm will result. The pinion merely touches the revolving flywheel
near once and immediately rotates with the threaded shaft out of contact with the
flywheel, in the same manner as when it has been disengaged by the engine's
starting,
.'."« i c U the Generator
operated} Answer No. 122
The generator is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine and bolted to the
cylinder front end cover. It is operated by the pinion on the armature shaft
engaging with the large time gear. The charging r=ie of generator is set so as
to cut in at engine speeds correspondinsr to 10 miles per hour in high speed and
reaches a maximum charging rate at 20 miles per hour. At higher speeds the
charge will taper off, which is a settled characteristic of a generator. This
operation of cutting in and cutting cut at suitable speeds is accomplished by the
eiit-out.^which is mounted on the generator. This cut-out is set properly at the
lactorj and should not under any circumstances be tampered with.
[SSJ
(Poi) (*) Pwitivt TtfmtruJ of &i<ier>
Switch ro Hem Slack Wire
Blict Wire, Bailee T<rminjJici Ammeter-
&LjLck Wire Ammeter to CuurUl.
Gr^ri Wire re
Tart Liahi
Ci1[(*> la Film* Or&jrsd Wire
Surfing Swkidi-'
I 5*MKh I a Msr^r Wire
y'tOa-* W^ to T«nii(wil BL*:i<
Re J VI . ■
Gcncf i
Horn S>v.tch
Blicfa Wire— Han Swiichtu Terminal BJecS
Yellow Wire to Ammeter
City Wire is Light Bulb T-
Green Wif". E .TiriiiuU
Red Wire to Mjihtwo Terminal
Brown Wire 10 i
Bh^k Wire IO Coil TeTmrfiflJ
[nurumenf Boor d
No 2 Red Wifci to Tins Trrrnirui
N* J Yellow W»r<J to Tluv Teinund
No 4 Greet! Wirft rfl Thit T terminal
No. 5 Brown Wire* ws Thr* TmnmjJ
i Grey Wrrci io The* Terminal
[*\. £ Wiy Cibk iSwjich m Terminal Blod
Way CnW« tTtrmnrul BL-mi, 19 Llghll
lafafi (Tsrnvml fitociV f
Miii t Foot 5**
Termtfwl &!■ ■■■-«
No. 4 Spirt Plug Wne
No. J Spark Ph* s Wtfe
No 2 Spirt Plu£ Wne
No tSpiftPhfWue
y — iNO I 3pii
/ SldrLng tAotoi Grdundud to Tfuwiuukm CovfeT
Qrown Wire Head Light Or ijthi
' - f m> / ' /Cre> W«e Hutf Ltfi, Dim
Wiring Diagram Cars Equipped with Starter. (Cut No. 23)
THE FORD STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM 57
What about
Oiling? Answer No. 123
The starting motor is lubricated by the Ford splash system, the same as the
engine and transmission. The generator is lubricated by a splash of oil from the
time gears. In addition an oil cup is located at the end of the generator housing
and a few drops of oil should be applied occasionally.
IT hat »li mi id lie done tche n
repairing tlie Ignition? AnSWer No. 124
The introduction of a battery current into the magneto will discharge the magnets
and whenever working on the ignition system or wiring do not fail to disconnect
the positive wire from the battery. The end of this wire should be wound with
tape to prevent its coming in contact with the terminal again.
How does tin'
Ammeter operate? Answer No. 125
The ammeter is located on the instrument board. This indicator registers
"charge" when the generator is charging the battery and "discharge" when the
lights are burning and the engine not running above 1 miles per hour. At an
engine speed of IS miles per hour or more the ammeter should show a reading
of from 10 to 12. If the engine is running above 15 miles per hour and the
ammeter does not show a proper reading, first inspect the terminal posts on the
ammeter, making sure that the connections are tight, then disconnect the wire
from the terminal on generator, and with the engine running at a moderate
speed, take a pair of pliers or a screw-driver and short-circuit the terminal stud
on the generator to the generator housing. If the generator is O. K., a good live
spark will be noted. (Do not run the engine any longer than is necessary
with the terminal wire disconnected.) Next inspect the wiring from the generator
through the ammeter, to the battery for a break in the insulation that would
result in a short-circuit. If the trouble is not located, then remove the dust
cap from the end of generator and thoroughly clean the generator commutator,
using for this work a fine grade of sandpaper which has been slightly oiled.
With the motor running hold the sandpaper against the commutator with
the fingers until all dirt hAs been removed and a bright surface attained.
Hove are the Lights
operated? Answer No. 126
The lighting system consists of two headlights and a tail light operated by a
combination lighting and ignition switch located on the instrument board. The
headlamp bulbs are of 6-8 volt, double filament type. The major filament is
18 candle-power, and the minor filament is 2% candle-power. The small bulb
used in the tail light is of 6-8 volt, single contact, two candle-power type. All
of the lamps are connected in parallel so that the burning out or removal of any
one of them will not affect the other. Current for the lamps is supplied by the
battery. Do not connect the lights to the magneto as it will result in burning
out the bulbs and might discharge the magnets. Cut No. 23 shows the different
circuits and the course of the current.
What about, repairing
Starter and Generator Answer No. 127
If either the starter or generator fails to give proper service, the owner should at
once consult an authorized Ford dealer. Owner* should not attempt to
repair or adjust the mechanism of the starter and generator.
1
58 THK FORD MANUAL
How in the Starter
removed? Answer No. 128
When removing the starter to replace transmission bands, or for any other reason,
first remove the engine pan on the left-hand aide of the engine and with a screw-
driver remove the four small screws holding the shaft cover to the transmission
cover. Upon removing cover and gasket, turn the Bendix drive shaft around
so that the set screw on the end of the shaft is at the top. Immediately under
the set screw is placed a lock washer, designed with lips or extfl
opposite each other. One of these is turned against the collar
other 13 turned up against the side of the screw head. Bend back
which has been forced against the screw and remove the set -screw. As 1
washer will no doubt be broken or weakened in removing the starter, a i
must be used when replacing it. Next, pull the Bendix assembly out of the 1
ing, being careful that the Smalt key is not misplaced nor lost. Remove the four
screws which hold the starter housing to the transmission cover, and pull out the
starter, taking same down through the chassis — -this is why it was necessary to
remove the engine pan. Extreme care should be u«ed in removing the Bendix
drive and other parts that none are misplaced nor lost and that they are replaced
in their former position. In replacing the starter, be sure that the terminal
connection is placed at the top. If the car is to be operated with the starter
removed, be sure to put the transmission cover plates in position. These plates
may be obtained from the nearest dealer.
Ilinc is the Bendix Drive
asxemhled tit I lie Start-
ing Motor? Answer No. 129
When assembling the Bendix DrTVe to the starting motor shaft, care must be
used to see that the stop nut or bearing which enters the mounting bracket on
the starting motor is not too tight; also that the bearing is in proper alignment
with the bracket. The bearing should be oiled and then fitted so that it can be
turned readily with the fingers. If the bearing is too tight, it should be dressed
down with an oil stone. Too tight a fit will cause the bearing to freeze to the
bracket, resulting in serious damage to the starter.
How in the Generator
removed?^ Answer No. 130
If it is found necessary to remove the generator, first take out the three cap
screws holding it to the front end cover and by placing the point of a screw-driver
between the generator and front end cover, the generator may be forced off the
engine assembly. Always start at the top of the generator and force it backward
■ and downward at the same time. Plates maybe obtained from the nearest dealer
to place oygr the time gear if the car is to be operated with the generator removed.
What .shut lid be done tchen
replaiina the Generator? Answer No. 131
When installing the generator, the drive pinion must be properly meshed with
the large time gear. The generator bracket, that is, the section to which the
generator is bolted is separate from the blinder block and the meshing of the
generator driving pinion with the large time gear can be regulated by the use of
one or more paper gaskets between the bracket and the cylinder block. The
bracket should rest tightly on the crankcase gasket and line up with the face of
the time gear case. If these gears are meshed too ^ghtly, a hu mming noise
will result, also the generator shaft will be thrown out of alig'nr!
gnTnHfc.
V
* * — -™* fcJ <* — I — , . _ -
THE FORI) STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM
h ~ : 1 _
Cora Cite Engine be run with the
(.I'tierator dixconnec ted from
the hntterv'S
Answer No. 132
If for any reason the engine is run with the generator disconnected from the bat-
tery, as on a block test, or when battery hag been removed for repair or recharging,
be sure that the generator is grounded by running a wire from the terminal on
generator to one of the dust cover screws In the yoke. Two strands of shipping
tag wire rpay be used for this purpose. Be sure that the connections at both
ends of the wire arc tight. Failure to do this when running the engine with the
generator disconnected from the battery will result in serious injury to the gener-
ator. Never ground the generator through the cut-out.
tr hat <yp*L "f Battery
is used? I Answer No.
The Ford Starting Systemjuses a six-volt, three-cell battery.
133
II i in are Hydrometer
Reading* tak,
Answer No. 134
Hydrometer, readings should be taken
about every two weeks to make sure
that the generator is keeping the battery
charged. To take a hydrometer reading,
remove the filling plugs (remove the plug
from only one cell at a time). Next,
insert #»e hydrometer syringe in the filler
tube and draw up enough of the solution
to float the glass bulb inside the instru-
ment. The reading of the scale at the
surface of the liquid (see Cut No. 24 j
gives the strength of the solution. Be
sure to return the electrolyte to the cell
from which it was taken. Following is
a list of the readings with their indica-
tions. The readings in parentheses apply
to batteries used in tropical climates
where water never freezes. Readings of
1.275 C1.20Q) or more indicate a fully
dharged battery. Readings of less than
1.225 (1.130) but more than 1.150 (1.080)
indicate complete discharge. Hydrometer
tests taken immediately after filling with
water and before it has become thoroughly
mixed with the electrolyte will not show
the true condition of the battery. If the
hydrometer reading shows the battery less
than one-half charged, it should be taken
to the nearest authorized Battery Service
Station for recharging. Continued opera-
tion in a less than half-chnrged condition is injurious to the battery somewhat
as running on a soft or deflated tire is injurious to the tire. Before replacing the
battery, the cause of the discharged condition should be removed. It may be
due to leaks or grounds in the car wiring or to the electric system having gotten
out of adjustment so that the battery is not kept supplied with the proper
amount of curren&from the generator. If the reading in one cell is more than
Hydrometer Readings. (Cut No, 34)
60 THE FORD MANUAL.
50 points different from the others, it indicates that the cell is not in good order
and the battery should be taken to a skilled service man for attention.
When should tcater Ite a kt -t or
added to the Battery? Answer iVO. 1 J 5
Add nothing but pure water to the cells and do it often enough to keep the plates
covered at all times. The solution (electrolyte) should be maintained at a
level with Che bottom of the filling tube. Distilled water, melted artificial
(but not natural) ice and rain water, if obtained in the open country from a
clean slate or shingle- covered roof, are generally satisfactory. All water for
battery use should be kept in clean, covered vessels of glass, china, earthenware,
rubber or lead. In cold weather add water only immediately before running the
engine so that the charging will mix the water and electrolyte, and avoid freez-
ing. If, for any reason, it is necessary to add acid, the battery should be taken
to an authorized Service Station.
II hut care should l>e given the . „ 1Q£
Fitting Plug* and Connections? AnSWer No. lJo
Keep the filling plugs and connections tight and the top of the battery clean.
Wiping the battery with a rag moistened with ammonia will counteract the effect
of any of the solution which may be on the outside of the battery. A coating
of heavy oil or vaseline will protect the connectors from corrosion. Keep the
battery firmly secured in position. If clamps are loose, the battery will shift
about in the compartment and result in loose connections, broken cells and other
trouble. If repairs are necessary or if the car is to be laid up for the winter,
take the battery to a skilled service man for proper attention and storage. Do
not entrust the battery to inexperienced or unskilled hands.
k
IE FORD MANUAL
Summary of Engine Trouble* and Their Causes
ENG1 N E FA ILS TO START
1. Gas mixture too lean.
2. Water in gasoline.
3. Vibrators adjusted too close.
+. Water or congealed oil in commu-
tator.
5. Magneto contact point (in trans.
cover) obstructed with foreign
matter.
5. Gasoline supply shut off.
7 . Carburetor frozen ( in zero weather ) .
8. Water frozen in gasoline tank
sediment bulb.
<?. Coil switch off.
engine lacks hiwkk— runs
IK REGULAR I A
At Low Speeds.
1. Poor compression — account leaky
valves.
2. Gas mixture too rich or too lean.
3. Spark plugs dirty.
4. Coil vibrator improperly adjusted.
5. Air leak in intake manifold.
6. Weak exhaust valve spring.
7. Too great clearance between valve
stem and push rod.
8. Too close gap between spark plug
points.
At High Speeds.
1. Commutator contact imperfect.
2. Weak valve spring.
3. Too much gap in spark plug.
4. Imperfect gas mixture.
5. Vibrator points dirty or burned.
ENGINE STOI»S SUDDENLY
1. Gasoline tank empty.
2. Water in gasoline.
3. Flooded carburetor.
4. Dirt in carburetor or feed pipe.
5. Magneto wire loose at either
terminal.
6. Magneto contact point obstructed.
7. Overheated — account lack of oil
or water.
8. Gas mixture too lean.
ENGINE OVERHEATS
1. Lack of water.
2. Lack of oil.
3. Fan belt torn, loose or slipping.
4. Carbon deposit in combustion
chamber.
5. Spark retarded too far,
6. Gas mixture too rich.
7. Water circulation retarded by
sediment in radiator.
8. Dirty spark plugs.
ENGINE KNOCKS
1. Carbon deposit on piston heads.
2. Loose connecting rod bearing.
3. Loose crank shaft bearing.
4. Spark advanced too far.
5. Engine overheated.
I r,
THE FORD MANUAL
I
I ml
t. \ it K OF TIKES P«*«
Care of Inner Tubes . +8
Casings How Repaired 48
How to Remove Tires 48
Repair Puncture .49
I OI1UNO SYSTEM
Causes of Overheating I }
Purpose . 1 7
Radiator Care in Winter 19
Repairing Radiator. . . . . , 19
What to Do When Overheated 17
i-m.INE
Carbon — How Removed . , . , . . , . 14
Connecting Rod and Bearings. .15
Engine Fails to Start ...,,,., .61
Engine Lack* Power — Runs Irregularly .ol
Engine Stops Suddenly 61
Engine Overheats 6]
Engine Knocks. 61
Knocking — Causes . , . ...... 14
Main Bearing — How Adjusted 16
Piston 9
Power Plant — How Removed .......... IS
Valves 9
GASOLINE SYSTEM
Carburetor — How to Adjust ... ... 21
Carburetor — How Controlled . 21
Carburetor — Trouble .... 11
Carburetor — How it Works. . 21
k;nition system
Coils ...... ^5
Commutator — Its Purpose 26
Magneto . . 25
Magneto Trouble .29
Spark Plugs 2;:
Where to Look for Trouble . . 27
I.UUIIUVHX; SYSTEM
How it Differs from Other.;
Kind of Oil to Use
Tt) Fill "Dope" Cups 4S
ex
maintenance
Care of Top
Storing Cars
To Keep Car Clean.
MUFFLER
What It Is For
How to Disconnect ,
i 11' Kit VTIO\
Adjustments — What to Do ....
Gasoline J
Getting Ready to Start ....
Hand Lever 6
Oiling ,3
Slow Speed, Brake and Reverse
Spark- -How Controlled
Speed — How Controlled
Starting
Starting in Cold Weather 6
HEAR AXLE
Differential Gear — -How Removed 3 7
Rear Axle How to Remove Ports . 37
Universal Joint— To Disconnect . . 37
Ml \M\I. t.r'MI
About Wheels I !
Care of Springs 43
Cups— How Installed 41
Its Cure 40
Lubricating the Beann ca . . 4.1
Remove Front Axle 40
Roller Bearings — How Installed. . 43
Steering Apparatus 44
Wheels . 41
TRANSMISSION
Binds 33
Clutch ,, : I
Planetary Transmission -What Ii I : . 31
Transmission— How Assembled .... 33
Model T Truck
Worm t How Removed.
Lubricating the OirTereotiaJ ,
SI
51
The Ford Starting and Lighting System
Type of System ,
. The Starting Motor — What if it Fails to A<-:
Oiling the Starter and Generator .
The Starter -How Removed
The Ben*,!* Drive -How Assembled to Starting Motor.
The Generator — How Removed
The Battery — Repairing and Recharging . .
FOtltJ FlMM 19)8 23QM-.
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